The star studded event beat all the previous records. Entry started exactly one and a half hours behind the scheduled time and the show another twenty minutes later.

If star power was one of the criterias to rate worthiness of a designer then Manav Gangvani would score the highest. Nevertheless the front row was occupied by several Bollywood stars who were obviously in love with the designer, because they were his best cheer leaders. The stage was bedecked with glitter and gold and Swarovski Elementsand what followed blinded our vision. The multifaceted designer all of 31years of age sure created an affair to remember. It was indeed an unforgettable experience of glitz charged atmosphere coupled with ‘voluptuous pleasure’ of the carnal variety.

Profusely studded with Swarovski Elements the outfits were special occasion sari, lehnga gowns and dresses. The dresses cut to basic shapes were body revealing and sexy specially the one in which a Model braved her way on the ramp with sheer grace in a transparent gown made of Swarovski Elements crystals only, leaving no scope for imagination. The fabrics were also transparent like chiffons, georgettes and tulle.

While the shapes and cuts were basic and flat it is the colour palette  of rainbow brights with a fruity intensity that set the ramp ablaze. Manav’s fascination with crystals and metallics was more the evident in the embellisnments he showcased that evenining.

Overall the collection was loud and glitzy.

The show began with models sitting around a tea party setting and chattering sounds of ladies of leisure filling the air. A familiar scene straight out of a period film on British Raj nostalgia.

As the models sauntered on the ramp, a waft of spring summer breeze filled the atmosphere. Fresh tones of pastel shades and clusters of floral motifs defined Pallavi Jaikishen’s first showing in Delhi. Her collection was opulent yet subtle.

As the Victorian mood prevailed, heavily embroidered saris, lehengas and kurtas remained elegant, distinctly influenced by Parsi aesthetics .

The first collection of saris and skirts called ‘Mystic Noir’ rolled out in
gossamer tulle , pastel satins in peachy blues, antique gold and mint green hues. All over embroidery in soft tonal shades interspersed with bold floral motifs embellished the sheer fabrics like a dream.

The second collection was plus with all over silver and iridescent sequins dispersed with minakari embroidery motifs capturing the regal splendor of years bygone. The saris were coordinated with contrasting blouses with similar feel and the lehenga ensembles were sumptuous yet understated.

The most dazzling and glittery collection of all was also in pastel tones with occasional small floral motifs showing up along the borders and Pallav. A poetic presentation of subtle sensibilities and sartorial elegance.

Anamika’s showcase for 2010 couture week was a stunning presentation of her intimate engagement with bespoke fashion. Her organic approach to design clearly reflected in every piece, painstakingly handcrafted and put together beautifully. However, she could have avoided those extra bits of tulle inserted randomly for ramp effect.

Her repertoire of outfits seemed to reflect several influences she experimented with, from diverse cultures, one tends to absorb from continuous visual exposure. There were glimpses of Egyptian graphics, Greco- Roman drapes and Oriental cuts seamlessly integrated with Indian shapes and craft techniques.

The overall sensibility was European, with muted shades of neutral colours, even the metallic elements were tarnished, dull and sober.

The fabrics were fluid, soft, delicate and light weight. There was silk
chiffon, silk velvet, georgette, nylon nets, jersey knits and lame`and different forms of hand techniques, materials, trims and treatments were used for creating organic textures and embroideries.

She corseted Indian Angarkha, structured Maharaja robe, modernized Indian Sharara and re-oriented the Indian lehanga into contemporary shapes. There was strong emphasis tail coats with cut away fronts and curved hems. The gold lame` sari was particularly elegant.

And the finale outfit in black velvet with macro floral motifs in pure white, had a folkloric appeal and was absolutely stunning. It came straight from the traditional white floral motifs commonly seen in the head accessories worn by the wedding couple in West Bengal. A closer look at the master piece revealed effective use of tiny white beads for embroidery.

Yet,again, Anamika enthralled her admirers with her ingenuity.

Those familiar with Valaya’s Couture were in for a big surprise at the 2010 presentation, ‘Alika in Yonderland’. Contrary to his statement     “Finally Couture, I also feel, is more suited for an individual, and not for generic trade and mass production” one was left with the feeling, that he is consciously attempting to enter mini mass production even if it means limited edition of 12 pieces.

The show began with ‘seen before’ classic styles in Ivory, tone on tone surface treatments. Purity of colour codes, reflecting the changing moods and emotions of his muse, ‘Alika’ steered the signature Valaya silhouettes in jersey, silk dupion, georgette and silk velvet fabrics. Surface techniques ranged from distressed foils, digital printing, appliqué and laser cutting.

The Ivory collection was followed by nude and beige tones embellished with dull silver appliqués, print and embroideries with somber feel.

The mood changed with fluid mid night blues, combined with burnished and tarnished putre metallic trims.

Thereafter, the reds in myriad tones dominated the evening. It is in this collection, driven by triumph and celebration J J introduced the much touted ‘Alika’ Jacket ( in plain gold colour lame` fabric, high neck, waist-length and full-sleeves) as the must follow luxury style statement for the fashion elite. Something like the X bags, or the Y shoes. Twelve of the above mentioned jackets were coordinated with a series of lehangas in different shades of Red and embellished with similar embroideries. A mini mass produced luxury collection of sorts .

he finale was a single edition wedding ensemble hand crafted with outsourced gems and Swarovski Elements.Over all the collection didn’t evoke much excitement in terms of innovation and creativity.

However it certainly seemed to be a calculated business strategy of Valaya Couture..