Jasonanshu ‘s collection reflected cheer and romance in their muted fresh colours and series of naïve motifs picked from cherished objects of a daily routine.

Squares turned into silhouettes. Geometry softened with layering effects, draping and bias cutting. They played with grain for a close-to-the-body fits. They used Layering to offer several options for coordinated looks with wrap skirts, simple tops, low crotch pyjamas, 3d Jackets and capes. Rounded hems and edges lined with contrast colours added sporty accents to the fun shapes.

Hand drawn motifs of stilettos, champagne flutes, a favourite lamp, lips, the moon, dragonfly and of flora and fauna free floated in open spaces. Naïve hand drawn checks were equally captivating. Simple and fundamental techniques of printing, dyeing and washing were applied in house for the home made collection a refreshing change from the monotonous perfection of mass produced fashion.

The colour palette ranged from bright acid pinks to old rose, emerald green to sky blue, lilac to neutral mauves and silver grey to dirty greys.

Shot silks and washed wool blends added mystical allure to the colours textures and shapes.

Here was a giant of a collection by the petit Aneeth Arora under her label Péro, which has been making waves ever since its launch. She continues to remain true to all that the label stands for, ‘international aesthetics using local material and skills’, whether it be her latest menswear collection at the Pitti Uomo in Florence this year or her children’s line at Pitti Bimbo previously or this, her latest show at the WIFW autumn/winter 2011-12 on the 9th April, 2011.

To the lilting strains of folksy Spanish and Cuban music tracks, Aneeth showcased the magic of Ajrakh prints on Chanderi silks, Gajji silks, crushed and crinkled cottons, in the linings of jackets, on scarves, interspersed with other assorted prints, checks, solids et al. The designer needs to be complimented for the impeccable styling of her collection. For instance, first out was Joey in grey and black checkered tweed pants, indigo Chanderi Ajrakh print shirt, a black wool waist coat under an indigo canvas jacket, wearing red angora hand knitted mittens and a crimson Marino wool scarf, a picture of casual chic, wearing a pair of canvas shoes to complete the look. And so it went on, a black Maheswar dress teamed with a crimson Chanderi Ajrakh print dress and a black hand knitted cashmere cardigan, with an indigo Ajrakh print Gajji silk scarf. Impeccable! Dungarees, shirts, jackets, dresses with slips showing, two dungarees with different details worn one over the other with the trouser leg of one rolled up to highlight the other, sweaters, tops, inners, maxi, churidars were the assorted apparel.

Fabrics ranged from the traditional weaves of Chanderi, Maheswari, Kota Doria, cotton, marino wool, hand knits, Malkha cotton, tweeds, canvas, cashmere. Ajrakh print was clearly the king, but also doing their part were checks, Maheswar prints, polka dots, Gara embroidery, crochet. The color palette was a lively mix of black, grey, indigo, crimson red, white, blue and more. Layering was dominant right through. Relaxed easy silhouettes, very Western, perhaps more European nomadic. The accessories that perfectly complimented the line were the Converse Star type canvas shoes, the raw hide bags, hand knitted mittens and socks, assorted scarves.
Enchanted!

Gaurav Gupta translates the dynamics of fluidity into classic shapes. Swirls of fabric fluttering, smoke rising out of embers, drop of ink dissolving in water, all swaying in a fluid motion on giant screens, set the mood for a mellifluous autumn/ winter collection.

Inspired by the aquatic fishes in motion and the rest of the above, Gaurav draped, tucked and pleated satins and silks into organic folds to create three dimensional dresses in his signature style.

The delicate swirl in motion print on satin and jersey fabrics was beautiful.

“The entire collection is ready to wear and will be available in made-to-fit sizes”, emphasized Gaurav, during an after show chat. The elegant silhouettes articulated in stretch jersey with flaps and fins fit the body like a comfortable glove. There were short dresses, knee length dresses, mid calf styles and long dresses suitable for day and evening wear.

Interesting accessories like hand -made jewellery and footwear with Swarovski Elements and stones were also designed by Gaurav.

Anamika Khanna’s creations were about art and craft meeting fashion in a timeless zone.

Her ready-to-wear collection was simply beautiful with meticulously crafted embroideries interplayed with delicate cut work. Contemporary silhouettes used stretch fabrics for comfort and shape and also enhanced the body contours. She used layering and colour play for added flavour.

Asymmetric tops and jackets with elaborate texturing were coordinated with skirts and trousers. Dresses were teamed with tights and pencil trousers, while asymmetric wraps and bustier in brighter shades added zing to simple black dresses.

The colour palette was fresh with bright pinks, green, blue and red hues against black and white base.

Embroideries in tonal threads, in metallic threads, with tiny white beads, combined with appliqués, tassels, fringes, piping and cut work created subtle textures on light plain fabrics like printed silks, cotton and jersey.

Her intensive engagement with craft techniques did not take away her attention from shapes, forms and proportions. Although young and trendy in style, the shapes were classic and uncomplicated with universal appeal. Long easy dresses and drapes for lounge wear complimented the versatility of her collection.

Abraham & Thakur’s collection was about getting down to the basics with menswear influence on womenswear that we see around us but fail to notice. It is like ‘jugad’ dressing. Ingenious mix and match of classic shapes and proportions redefined into understated trendy chic fashion looks . They received standing ovation.

Simple ideas were re-imagined and juxtapositioned with the unexpected mundane daily wear. Simple separates coordinated with attitude. For instance, block printed silk/cotton kota shirt was paired with sari in herringbone print, village women do it all the time. Next came cotton shirts teamed with ready- to-wear silk munda wrap (white lungi with narrow gold border ), which was a clever detail. The cotton viscose patchwork kurta with Aligarhi trouser and jacket was awesome, and cotton khadi shirt coordinated with salwar trousers and printed cots wool jacket looked rather interesting as did handloom silk sari paired with pinstripe viscose vest.

Known for their penchant for rustic hand loom fabrics, the use of sequins on the Prince of Wales checks for Nehru jacket was a first for the label. Sequins also appeared on sari pallu and skirt to add that extra zing .

Amongst delicate stitching details, embroidered elements, tonal buttons, the piece-dyed and piece-printed pinstripes, Prince of Wales checks and giant hounds tooth checks on saris, dupatta and garments were bold yet elegant. An interesting shift from the male domain.

The colour palette was primarily dry and neutral with blacks, broken whites and beige for natural fabrics like cotton, khadi, kota, silk and viscose.

Rahul Mishra takes his creativity forward with another stunning collection where he continues to play with his key strength in the area of fabric development and fabric weave. This time he worked with the impossible blend of organza silk, degummed silk in the warp and organic khadi in the weft, to get the desired drape and fall for his collection. He stayed true also to what is now emerging as his signature style, which is metamorphosis as the theme in the patterns as they move from dark to light or vice versa. Yet, the treatment was fresh with no trace of any repetitiveness. Another first for a Rahul Mishra apparel was the use of Swarovski Element Crystal, which immediately translated into an appropriate look for festive or eveningwear.

The theme for this collection was ‘Lineage’. A single dot’s progression into clusters to morph into urban landscapes, and scatter again, and lines that progressed from streaks to thick forms. The designer needs to be complemented for the impeccable mitering, as seams joined lines without breaking or shifting. Western silhouettes, clean straight lines for long or short dresses, tunics, flowey jackets, jumpsuits, pallazos and pants. Hand-woven fabrics of khadi silk in a color palette of black, grey, blush pink, ivory, were sometimes embellished with embroidery, tessellation artwork. A feminine touch was the sheer black pallazos worn under long dresses, or a one-shoulder drape. The 32 piece collection ended with an impeccably constructed long jacket worn with slim pants.

Rahul Mishra has been able to balance his sensibilities perfectly between artistic creativity and commerce savvy. The designer attributes this to his ability to be able to detach himself completely from a theme once it is executed and move on to the next plane. Perhaps that is what lends the desired edginess to his lines. Already he is working on new ideas. Looking forward to his collection for the next season.

Sabyasachi Mukherjee presented a period couture collection at the grand finale of the A/W 2011 WLFW. This time the inspiration shifted from Moghul to European bourgeois grandeur of bygone era.

Literary festival mood seemed to have inspired the set design as the back drop was reminiscent of an old European library. Show began with a live band Ronnie Montrose playing jazz music and high pitched number from a feisty solo singer Kiya from London. An eclectic collection, elaborate and folkloric in his true signature style exploded on the ramp with a dramatic flourish.

Huge skirts with elaborate embroidery and graphic detailing paired with structured tops and blouses, and layers of colourful frills on both shoulders were the predominant elements defining the silhouettes. Few contemporary silhouettes like shift dresses, trousers and long shirts occasionally punctuated the predominantly theatrical collection.

Decorative surfaces were embellished with mix-match prints, large florals, micro florals, geometrics, chunky embroideries, rosettes and appliqués.

Colours ranged from blues, green, yellow, red, to stark black and white.