Creating an interesting summer collection with fabrics like mul, cotton and silk, Anamika Khanna presented a cool comfortable line in black, white, grey, purple and red. The influence was very masculine for the androgynous creations, which ranged from Maharaja Jackets and coats, to waistcoats, shirts with wide cuffs, ballooning trousers, Jodhpuri pants and touches of the dhoti in some of the flowing creations. Some of the interesting garments were the white sheer covers with shoulder interest, heavily embroidered red transparent lehenga, slit long sleeves for blouses, anarkali kurtas, grey gold embroidered jackets and belted coats. Chikan work gave the high slit tunics the perfect summer touch, while the short sleeve jackets over long sleeve inners were a good combination.

There was however a repeat of the fabric cutwork jackets which were also seen a few seasons ago and the short clinging cholis appeared far too many times in the collection. A little care was also needed in the finish and fit of the garments. But when it came to practical cool summer wear, Anamika scored high as the ensembles will be eminently saleable on all fronts with the androgynous look being one of the hot trends of the coming season.

Going in for a new brand called “Mineral,” Priyadarshini Rao has struck a perfect ready-to-wear story, which will be a good mix-n-match hot seller for her.

Bringing in a variety of prints with checks and simple layering for different garments, she used textures like crush, and pleats along with florals and stripes. The colours were a line of pastels with ink blue and indigo added to the pink, pale blue, green yellow, orange with fabrics like mul, linen and cotton. Lace insets added a feminine touch for the white peasant dresses, while tiny bows gave that little girl look to the blouses.

Printed shifts, layered skirts, comfy pants, asymmetric pinafores, blousons, cool shirts and jackets gave a wide choice to the wearer. The drop crotch checked balloon pants, bubble overalls the jersey tops with wide dolman sleeves and the angular tunics with matching skirts, shorts with sheer long covers were ideal summer wear. The handkerchief hem skirt with touches of neon green, the yellow balloon pinafore and the lacy backs for some of the Tees gave some formal options too for this very casual line.

The look was charming at times reflecting an era long gone by. Keeping the silhouettes easy Priyadarshini ensured that there was a pleasant mix of the fitted as well as loose for the different apparel. To complete the look Priyadarshini added colourful bags and trendy jewellery as well as shoes.

The miniral's versatile nature and commercial viability will be a great addition to the portfolio of collections by Priyadarshini Rao.

Inspired by the ‘Save the Tiger’ initiative, Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s collection worked around the colours of the majestic animal. But he also added on a melange of bright hues for the khadi and matty handloom fabrics, along with the prints from Rajasthan and the Sunderbans, as well as the beauty of rural Bengal’s crafts.

The look was high fashion kitsch, which Sabyasachi is so good at. But this time, in the western genre, the designer moved through various decades from the 20s to the 30s, and 40s, and added on a bit of the Boho chic of the 70s, and the daring silhouettes of the 80s. From multi panelled long skirts with jackets and maxi dresses to tiny playsuits and bikini tops with a hint of shimmer, there was a lot happening in the collection. The distinct detailing however was reserved for the shoulders, which were given pleated or gathered chandelier like forms that at times resembled lamp shades. Quirky though they were, the look matched the style of the collection. Cutwork appeared for black flowing pants, while the overall shapes were basic long and lean for the dresses as well as the skirts and even shirts. The Chotu sari created by Sabyasachi two seasons ago appeared again with the multi fabrics, prints and colours but this time over long regal lehengas.

Accessorised perfectly with wooden necklaces and bangles, the collection revealed an interesting and exciting style statement from Sabyasachi Mukherjee, who till now had been mired in the bridal wear segment.

Jatin Varma called his collection “Gelato” inspired by the Italian ice-cream and ensured that his colour and fabric choice matched the theme. Here one can’t fault the designer as he selected four colours ranging from juicy apricot yellow to white, blue and melon pink for his very glamorous cocktail line of minis and long gowns. His fabrics too were a perfect option with silk organza and silk taffeta being the basis of his creations that had a profusion of structures and various forms of draping. There were the multiple ripples on all the garments, inspired by the gelato in an ice-cream parlour. Then there were layers of fabrics for full circle skirts and the look was feminine and flirty as the models pouted and preened at head ramp.

The initial impact of the scrunched, draped, rippled, crumpled, moulded fabrics with pleating and folds held the audience’s attention but when each colour story had somewhat similar design elements it was a little difficult to find anything innovative in the collection. One got the feeling of “if you have seen one you’ve seen all” at the end of the show. In addition the cascading folds of fabrics needed more careful attention in finish and fit to turn them into arresting creations.

Maybe next time around Jatin Varma could dream up another delicious theme with possibly a few more experiments in the flavours to create a difference in the menu.

Vivek Karunakaran preferred to move from the beaten path and decided not to title his collection but called it a Resort Wear 2011 line to fit into the theme of the fashion week. A sensible decision, which worked well since the collection did all the talking for the designer with its perfect holiday silhouettes, colours and fabrics. Choosing sheer chiffon, georgette, organza and fluid crepe, satin, linen and jersey in colours that ranged from pretty pastels like white and pink to hot hues of red, vermillion, orange and green there was a clear story line in the collection.

The silhouettes were fluid and relaxed, ideal for the hot days on the beach, with tonal and contrast godets being an interesting factor. The swimwear was basic with practical covers while hemlines were flirty and asymmetric or unevenly layered for volume. Some of the interesting ensembles were the ecru georgette maxi with gathered centre front and colour blocking at hem in vermillion crepe, the double layered kerchief hem halter dress in crepe and satin, the sequinned shift dress with neckline in contrast mesh embroidery, sunny tent dress and stylized jumpsuit zuave dress with contrast piping and pleating detail.

There was just a hint of men’s wear with four sets – shirts, trousers and single breasted unlined jacket in silk organza worn with orange cotton linen trousers which looked as if the designer wanted to please the stronger sex as an afterthought.

Vivek Karunakaran however got all the resort fundas right for his women’s wear, which is what matters when it comes to sales; since the fairer sex is more concerned about how they look in and out of the water.

The designing duo of Shivan and Narresh called their collection “Vanilla” and it was as relaxed and comfortable as the name with perfect resort silhouettes that ranged from bikinis, to tankinis, maillots, swimsuits along with fun playsuits, cool trousers and jackets, kaftans, body suits, shirts, soft tube maxis and even a bikini sari. There was the distinct colour blocking with shades of pastels like blue, cream, vermillion, orange, red for soft fluid fabrics like crepe and georgette as well as Lycra for the swim wear. There was a repeat of the power shoulders and the exaggerated hips for the opening beach outfit while the colour blocking gave a distinct déjà vu of the last season’s look which had been applauded wildly by the audience and the media.

While the collection worked beautifully for the season and could be considered an extension of the previous one, it was apparent the designers wanted to play safe and follow the tried and tested path. No doubt Shivan and Narresh design the best swimwear in India, which is appreciated by the international stores and buyers; but making an impact one season and following it for another, reflects a hesitation to experiment and be adventurous.

What was definitely very eye catching were the lovely chokers and necklaces as well as the belts, clutches and the innovative iPad covers, which matched the look of the ensembles. Of course, “Vanilla” will be a great seller for the summer months at resorts in India and around the globe, but maybe next season Shivan and Narresh could work around a slightly different flavour with more tasty accompaniments.