The Lakmé Fashion Week, a leading business event for the fashion industry, is back again with the Summer / Resort collections. The much awaited event is being held at Grand Hyatt, Mumbai from 05th to 09th March, 2010. We at RVG Newsvision bring you daily coverage of the shows with detailed reviews specially written for us by fashion expert M.Mistry.
Samurai pants elastic hemline recycled fabrics for fringes
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Large rose appliqués
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Acrylic baubles on neckline and hexagon skirts
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Sheer low backs for minis and gowns.
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Extreme 3D appliqués delicate quilting crafted garments
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Embroidery and prints from Mexico, India, Africa and France.
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Net Sari with patch pocket and worn over printed petticoat
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Reversible interchangeable dress worn in 5-6 different ways with 15-20 drapes
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Zippers as embellishment
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Fabrics twisted and turned with precision and allowed to go free
Manish Malhotra
Manish Malhotra is a designer whose meteoric rise in the Indian as well as global fashion circles has been noteworthy. He is the winner of the Indira Priyadarshni memorial award and sundry Filmfare and Cine awards. The designer started out as a model while still an undergrad at Elphinstone college in Mumbai. He launched his first couture store, ‘Reverie-Manish Malhotra’, in 1998 in association with Yash and Avanti Birla. In 2004, he launched his label ‘MANISH MALHOTRA’, which is the country’s first dedicated diffusion label. The secret to his success lies in his ability to balance filmy styles with haute couture.
Manish Malhotra aimed to show his love for his country and that was the noble thought that was revealed. Having travelled the world he decided to present a perfect blend of the East and West resort line with his inspiration the global playground of the rich and famous – St Tropez. What appeared in the collection was a lot of glitter and abundance of net some of it used rather creatively and a good collection of men’s ethnic bundgala jackets with discreet detailing.
But when it came to the fabric choice, Manish tends to take the easy way instead of the haute way. Net was the base no doubt and so was chiffon and linen and blends along with satin with lace but a solitary multicoloured kaleidoscopic geometric print design which was used in three colour ways was tiresome on the senses.
Why is it that Manish insists on zeroing in on one fabric in different colours for his shows? In the past there was a print that appeared throughout the show making it quite boring. Of course he used it differently – at times as the lining under a net or as a full circle anarkali kurta and at other times as an asymmetric beach mini and still on other occasions as a blouse. But how much of the same thing can one see in one show and that too a rather ordinary jersey with nothing to rave about?
The colours were pastel pinks, peaches, white, pale blue, lemon with a touch of ombre effect and the net appeared for saris with wide embroidered borders or as leggings with sparkling shimmer. There were a few interesting pieces like the cowl neck choli, kaftans with side pleating, a satin blouson jumpsuit, sheer net dhoti pants with a frothy top, and net saris worn with trousers or leggings, swirling trapeze tops and kurtas that had metres of net.
It was the men’s wear that had some good design directions as the bundgala was the centre of the collection and the treatment given to it
was discreet with a different collar style for each and button closures that were imaginatively placed in one, two or even groups of 3. Piping
edged the collars, pockets and plackets and the men’s shirts were stylish in an understated manner with rows of faggoting on the billowy sleeves and narrow lace insets in front.
There was a marked Bollywood touch in the women’s wear though some of it was far too daring even for the big screen divas. There was glitz and glamour but haven’t we seen swirling kurtas in most of Manish Malhotra’s collections along with solitary repetitive prints?
A fresh look could help, since the Manish Malhotra following is envious as seen by the standing room only show.
With the heightened focus on our planet’s fragile ecology comes a palpable desire to return to more traditional values and re-establish harmony with nature. CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements’ innovations for Spring/Summer 2011 reflect this mood. On-trend, precision-cut crystals reinterpret the flowing forms of the Art Nouveau movement in myriad light-filled reflections and refractions; crystals in organic, textured shapes evoke insects, leaves and fired earth; and new colours mirror the lush beauty of vegetation.
Designer Editions: borrowed from nature, captured in crystal
Following the début of legendary designer Andrée Putman’s ‘Fantastic Flowers’ in February 2009, CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements is delighted to announce her completion of this collection with three beautiful new pieces. The Ginko, Zinnia and Lotus Pendants are delicate, crystalline interpretations of leaves found in nature, their organic shapes providing an aesthetic counterpoint to their graphic faceting. Innovative use of indents in the design of Zinnia and Lotus gives the illusion of a pattern of symmetrical ‘holes’, lending them a contemporary feel. As with all Designer Editions moving forwards, this collection now bears a distinctive stamp on its packaging.
Fusion Concepts: trend-driven style
Hot on the heels of last season’s Crystal Mosaics come Ceramics, a unique selection of loose Ceramics, Flat Backs, Beads and Pendants that draw on the natural beauty of fired earth. Available in a tonal range of Marbled Black, Marbled Blue, Marbled Ivory and Marbled Yellow, these latest innovations are the first to offer fully cut ceramics as a creative material. Completely opaque, their highly polished finish produces subtle reflections, while the textural craquelure effect creates individual, discreetly elegant pieces. Tough and scratch-resistant, they open up new functional design possibilities, such as key ring accessories and extra-narrow bead fixings.
Delhi based Anand Bhushan graduated from NIFT Delhi and went on to acquire a post graduation degree from the prestigious National Institute of Design. He has mastery over fashion and textiles and is known for mixing drapes, working with textured fabrics, flamboyant embroidery and extravagantly ornamented garments. The label ‘Anand Bhushan’ not only makes fashion creative but also able and continues to cultivate the modern, edgy take on upscale dressing which the designer has become known for.
At first glance when reading the concept note of the collection one wondered how the garments would look because of the rather morbid theme. Anand Bhushan called his collection “Rust” which did not refer to the colour; but to the condition of things that ranged from an ode to winter fairytales of widows and soldiers, rusted foliage on tombstones, uniform’s stripes and antique wall papers patterns.
But what appeared on the ramp were amazingly crafted well finished garments each a beauty to behold. Presenting a Fall/Winter 2010 collection one wondered why when the season of the fashion week was Summer/Resort 2010? But on viewing the garments one realized why Anand wanted nearly six months to make them. For each garment was painstakingly crafted and almost a work of art with impeccable finish and innovative construction and detailing.
3D surfaces, abstract patterns and luxurious reliefs, blended with the sober colours of chocolate, wine, beige, burnt lilac and gray for the end of the year fashion offering. The first entry on the ramp almost took the audience’s breath away. It was a fall foliage jacket with a woollen sweater and raw silk shorts. Soon followed the fluted silk dress, flat chiffon yoke dress, and the silk leaf rock dress with floral appliqués. A knitted wool Kelly dress was simple in shape but intricate in weave. Evening wear appeared in the form of a silk dress with deep V and bead work. Gold thread work wove an intricate story on a silk boyfriend jackets; while the silk and sequin fluted wine dress had relaxed tucks on the skirt to give a gentle fullness. The finale was a brown rusted foliage wool jacket that got Anand a thunderous applause.
Anand Bhushan a double fashion graduate from NID Ahmedabad and NIFT Delhi is the man to watch out for in the seasons to come; for he knows his fashion fundas very well and can create some truly outstanding collections.
Asmita Marwa is a Hyderabadi designer who has successfully made her mark within India as well as in the fashion capitals like Paris and Los Angeles. She started her designing career in 1990 and in 2003 launched her fashion label ‘Asmita’ that is sold through her signature store Reves d’Etoile and at ‘xlnc’ in Hyderabad and "AZA in Mumbai and Delhi. She is the Telugu film industry’s favorite designer. Asmita was a judge at the Femina / Pantaloons Miss India South Pageant, 2009 where she was chosen to design the Final Evening Wear Round. Following her showing for Cotton Council International, she was selected to judge the Let’s Design reality show
Giving a new twist to her summer resort line, Asmita Marwa described it as Boho Resort and called it “Maya 00 36’0”S/730 6’0” E”. it was aimed at the free spirited woman who likes to travel the world in clothes that spell comfort and style. Using a variety of checks in shades of red, white and black and using tie and dye and roses in shades of leisure, Asmita worked around muslin, linen and chiffon.
What made the collection a fun experience were the silhouettes which ranged from halter dresses, to draped tunics, samurai pants, sacks, layered maxis, jumpsuits, jackets, shorts and finally some very sexy bikinis. Detailing was concentrated on pleats, fringes with recycled fabrics, rose knots, some large appliqués of roses, ruffles, patchwork, drapes, crushed and shaded fabrics, asymmetrical hemlines, and block prints.
The collection started on the red, black and white checked theme for halter and long dresses and loose drapes over sequined bikini and linen Bermudas; then moved to an orange handloom silk chiffon drape with a back cowl. Stretch cotton was used for tiered long dresses with elastic hemlines; while a black floral print chiffon maxi with panels and ruffles was ideal for an evening on the beach.
Moving into the blue section there were was a Japanese inspired collage patchwork jacket with indigo linen shorts and a tie and dye checked muslin drape and shaded drawstring pants. The white muslin line had smocked tunics with tie and dye edging and rose appliqué and a draped top with cabbage crush tie dye rose over a sexy bikini and blue cotton pinstriped sharara pants.
There was a definite note of controlled concept and look in the collection, and it will work very well as a holiday wardrobe giving Asmita Marwa some creative satisfaction.
Swapnil Shinde is a graduate of the National Institute of Fashion Technology, after which he went on to acquire a diploma in fashion styling from Milan. He participated in the reality television show ‘Lakmè Fashion House’ and made it to the final six. He retails elegantly sexy women’s wear under his name sake ‘Swapnil Shinde’, where he successfully fuses ethnic and western sensibilities.
Let’s Play A Game – Again was the title of Swapnil Shinde’s collection which the designer stated was a mix of two hit Hollywood movies Transformer meets Alice in Wonderland as he called it. The attempt was to create a robotic collection, influenced by car parts and androids for the robot beauty of the future.
The colours were not too restricted as red, black, white, turquoise, white, acid green, teamed with chiffon and georgette to lame and Lycra, with embellishments that ranged from patent leather and metal chain embroidery to techno acrylic cutouts for the printed shirts, pants and dresses. There was a certain symmetrical construction as bandage tops and dresses with acrylic work, hexagon lampshade skirts and patent corsets with laser cut outs appeared on the ramp. One of the constants in the show was the sheer low net backs of most of the garments that added a sexy touch to the ensembles.
Bandage dresses ‘a la Herve Leger’ appeared on the catwalk but needed a finer finish. The geometric dress, the hexagon skirt minis appeared in varying tones of copper and crème; while the batwing sleeve mini in textured silver lame and the corset with black chiffon long skirt, the chiffon gown over shorts, the hooded white mini were pure evening wear. The acrylic neck edging were rather clever - replacing the necklace. The final acrylic dome over a pencil skirt dress was Swapnil’s way of staying true to his inspiration; though the garment without the distraction was rather nice.
Emphasis was also on the Swarovski crystal belts, neck pieces and zipper ends that added glitter to the garments. Each piece in the collection did try to follow the look, but somewhere down the line the creations went on a tangent. There were a few note worthy outfits that brought excitement to the collection, but maybe Swapnil Shinde could concentrate on getting it all there and on a finer finish to give the garments that oh la la appeal.
Although Malini Ramani acquired a training in Fashion Merchandising and Buying from the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, she chose to return to India and eventually launched her own namesake fashion label in 2000. Her apparel is high on the glamour quotient and reflects her own style of dressing – youthful, sexy and eye catching. She has set up her design studio and retail outlet in Goa but her apparel are available globally in all major designer stores.
Designing resort wear for Malini Ramani is a cakewalk as the designer spends most of her time in the holiday state of Goa. So her Summer/Resort 2010 line was one of great personal creative satisfaction for her and a visual treat for the audience. Divided into five very distinct segments, Malini took a fashionable journey around the world to draw her inspirations from the beauty of holiday havens.
Her first stop was Mexico where the Mayan and Aztec art brought the colours and motifs in the embroidery. Sun yellow and fuchsia with jewel toned appliqués was seen for long and mini kaftans, dresses and jumpsuits. Draped jersey for minis and overlapping sun dresses were stylishly elegant.
Moving to the Cote Azure in the South of France, Malini felt that strapless jumpsuits would be ideal in this section with bustier bodices. One shoulder chutney and turquoise shaded kaftans, two tone jersey gowns, hooded side tie up maxis and wrap dresses were in fluid textures.
Drawing inspiration from Pushkar in Rajasthani, Malini used its thread work along with shells, mirrors and studs for trendy shirt dresses, bohemian shifts, beach capes and jumpsuits. The embroidery was the focal point while the pastel colours like ecru were a perfect base for the Rajasthani needle work on chiffon, jersey and cotton silk.
The call of the wild took Malini to Africa where the digital zebra and snake prints in black, white and beige gave the tunics, kaftans, swimsuit, monokini, bikini and draped minis, touches of the beauty of the Dark Continent. The modern Bandhani motifs were used in an innovative manner while the tasseled bone, bead and shell jewellery added glamour.
Finally bringing red carpet resort glamour to the catwalk Malini presented three liquid gold draped gowns with Mumbai as her inspiration.
It was definitely one of the best resort lines that Malini Ramani has created and the collection was the highlight of the day.
Purvi Doshi is leading from the front in the ‘emerging designers’ category and is sure to go places. She has not acquired any formal training in fashion designing but that has not been a deterrent to her creativity. She is a self-taught designer exploring the depths of ethnicity and aesthetics of Indian culture and crafts. Her designs are influenced by the rich colors, motifs and patterns from Gujrat, the region to which she belongs. Her apparel is a seamless weave of the Indo-Western sensibilities that are timeless in their appeal.
For regular travellers who hate carrying too much luggage, Purvi Doshi has just the solution. Carry one of her garments and then wear it in 5 to 6 ways and with 15-20 drapes. So how does Purvi do it? Is she a magician?
Inspired by the crafts of Gujarat, Purvi created a collection of 4 styles which were shown as 16 garments at the fashion week. Called “Kahchindo” which means Chameleon in Gujerati, Purvi made each garment revisable with four layers of fabrics that can be worn inside out, upside down and side by side. The layers gave different colours to the garments and a new shape and character. Drawstrings on the hem, sides, sleeves and shoulders created the magic in the garments.
The first outfit was a geometrical patched pattern in yellow and white silk with aari mirror work on red and the other side was a graphic design. The second had patchwork in pink, red and white silk which turned into a sack, then a summer dress and a tunic all with different looks and colours. The third garment had geometric stitching in blue, green and white on one side and a very ethnic embroidered look on the other which gave it four faces. Finally the saris were as versatile in blue and white silk with Indian embroidery on a black base and a geometric version on the other side. What made the garments really interesting was that they could change from ethnic to western style in a matter of minutes.
Women who love fashion but are on a strict fashion budget will love Purvi Doshi’s collection and so will their very happy spouses and fathers.
Masaba Gupta chose to become a designer as an afterthought. However the young designer struck gold when she won the INIFD award for the most promising designer of the year in the emerging and the gen next category in September 2009 and got to show her collection at the Lakmé Fashion Week. She is back this year and is participating in the emerging designers category. Despite her mixed heritage by celebrity parents, her creations reflect the true Indian spirit of the designer. The ethnic colors and traditions are the inspiration behind her latest collection.
Masaba Gupta has managed to carve quite a name for herself at the tender age of 21 and retails rather well from stores in Mumbai, Delhi and Ahmedabad. After her Gen Next debut last year she appeared in the emerging designer section and stayed true to her signature style statement of rural craft and urban kitsch.
Her collection called “Chhalini” which means net was the inspiration for the collection where the fabrics played peek-a-boo with each other. The colours were vibrant canary yellow, rani pink, black and white with bottle green and deep aqua. The shapes were fluid rustic and very commercial with geometric motifs in shocking pink threads, ikat and pearls. The fabrics were restricted to net and muslin.
Adding on a men’s wear line called 'Litmus Test', Masaba showed that she is quite comfortable designing for both sexes. There were interesting detailing touches like contrast print for hem and placket facing. While attached hemlines to the shoulder gave a new silhouette. Net sari with a patch pocket over printed petticoat was a quirky design direction and a favourite of Masaba’s.
Interesting ensembles were the crushed green mul and pink embroidered drape dress, the blue crush mul and pink net jumpsuit in multi fabrics, the patch work blue and yellow net jacket with shorts and dot bikini, the asymmetrical printed green and net dress and the full sleeve net beaded anarkali with a white embroidered bustier.
Men’s wear was very trendy and would need a man with a very extrovert personality to carry it off. Dhoti pants, cowled linen shirt, ikat jacket and purple linen pants, a white linen ankle length shirt and yellow silk dhoti, a palm print silk jacket and linen dhoti pant and the striped ikat jumpsuit were some of Masaba’s offerings.
When a designer knows her market and the preferences of her customers, then she has her finger on the pulse of the buyers. Masaba Gupta seems to have that rare gift at a young age, which will see her through the competition in the years to come.
An alumnus of Pearl Academy of Fashion, Rimzim Dadu’s creativity is showcased in her minimalist approach to creating a chic street style. She works wonders with different fabric textures and mixes unusual fabrics together to create a look, which is truly unique. Her label ‘my village’ reflects her simple design philosophy of understated chic.
Inspirations at the fashion week seem to be getting a little morbid with designers getting creative with death, guns and cold steel bullets as was the case with Rimzim Dadu for her label “My Village”. But once again the buyers need not despair as the collection was elegant very pretty and ideal for cocktail wear.
Bomber jackets, cocoon coat dresses and broken zipper accessories gave an interesting look to the collection. Using zippers as embellishments, Rimzim had a full dress with fasteners strategically place to give a glittering appeal. The weaves of the fabrics were innovative with twisting and precision which allowed them to break free into abstract form when needed. There was a clever play of light and shadow and the mix of faux leather with shredded cotton on deconstructed garments.
Black was the obvious colour with blue, beige, purple, rust and brown coming behind. The small collection of 17 garments revealed Rimzim’s depth of designs as a knotted and looped leather vest was teamed with shredded cotton double layer top and flapper shorts. A chorded leather jacket was pretty and the zipper embroidery worked very well on a shredded top. The owl motif appeared on a frayed metallic dress and a beige and metallic thread top.
The final two garments in leather weaving and leather chord in rust and brown in a chevron design were just brilliant. Each season Rimzim aims to give the audience something new to look forward to and it is very obvious that she puts a lot of thought and care in her work since the garments were all very well finished.
Here was one more collection that will turn into a conversation piece for her loyal buyers and Rimzim Dadu will be a very satisfied lady.
