Plagiarism charges at the WIFW fashion week

With so many designers across the globe interpreting the same trends and projections, it is not surprising that a few identical designs crop up on the ramps. At the recently held AW 09 fashion weeks, Sirali's Rahul Jain and Gunjan Arora who showed at the WIFW event, have leveled the same charges against fashion week debutants Sandeep & Gaurav who participated in the Delhi Fashion Week. Sirali showed a light pink 'wearable art' dress with an intricate design created by enmeshed threads and Sandeep and Gaurav showed a similar dress in deeper pink. Sirali is taking the issue to court.

Sanjana Jon’s protest on the WIFW ramp

Sanjana Jon tried to draw attention to her protest for the release of her brother Anand Jon, who is currently behind bars in the US on charges for rape, by walking the ramp for designer Charu Parashar. She trudged on the ramp sans a smile or usual model like gait but merely to state that, she was doing it for her brother. Sanjana said, “The fact that I can be a model and walk the ramp is a statement that I want to make to the other models. If I’m going to dress for the ramp, somebody is going to touch me and if I turn around and accuse him of inappropriate touching – it’s ridiculous. I want those models (who’ve accused Anand) to get the message that I walked the ramp too. But I am not going to accuse people of touching me because that’s part of their job. I am not standing on the other side of the fence – I am where they are.” She returns to the US on the 1st April in time for Jon’s hearing.

Kolkota Fashion Week set to roll for the first time ever

The first ever Kolkota Fashion Week is all set to happen from April 2-5. The event will see such designers as Rohit Bal, Wendell Rodricks, Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna, Shane-Falguni and Gauri Nainika, Bibi Russell, Mona Pali, Dev R Nil, Abhishek Dutta, Marg, Sharbari Dutta, Zubair Kirmani, Anjana Bhargav, Manoviraj Khosla and Narendra Kumar. Many of them have just shown or are showing their lines at one or the other of the three fashion weeks (the Lakme Fashion Week ending on the 31st March) and it is likely they might simply show the same lines again. Narendra Kumar is putting up two separate shows for men’s wear and women’s wear at the Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai and does he have a new line for Kolkota? The designated showstoppers for the event are John Abraham, Bipasha Basu, Dino Morea, Neha Dhupia, Mugdha Godse and others.

Suneet Varma and the Judith Leiber bag

Judith Leiber, the high end accessory brand from the US, has invited Suneet Varma to design a range of limited edition hand bags for Fall-09, which will be sold across the globe. The Hungarian born Judith Leiber specializes in exotic crystal covered, ornamental cases which have been popular with the American first ladies since the sixties and some of the bags are included in the permanent collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Smithsonian. Suneet Varma, who has tied up with CRYSTALLIZED™ swarovski elements, had his models carry the Leiber bags at the Couture Week held in September last year. Suneet Verma will present his complete collection for Lieber in 2010.

FDPC shows muscle – acquiring prime land for fashion center

The new newsmaker in town, the Fashion and Design Promotion Council (FDPC), is making the next logical move and has put the wheels in motion to set up a dedicated fashion hub. With the powerful clout of the government of India, the location being sought will be well located. As per reports, Vijay Singh, CEO and Secretary of the Council said, “At this centre, every designer will get an individual space. The Centre will also serve as a permanent space for industry B2B events, as well as trade and fashion shows, which are currently held at places like Pragati Maidan.” After being launched and tested at Delhi, similar centers are projected for other Metros like Mumbai, Bangalore, Chennai and Hyderabad.

‘Mai Mumbai’- fashion+charity+global celebrities at the LFW AW 09

In a first-of-its kind charity initiative in India, the Lakme Fashion Week Fall - Winter ‘09 will hold a fashion show christened as ‘Mai Mumbai,’ which is to benefit the victims of 26/11 blasts in Mumbai and to demonstrate that the city of Mumbai is “open for business.”
Naomi Cambell’s ‘Fashion for Relief’ organization, which was created in 2005 during NY's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week to aid victims of hurricane Katrina and is set to provide aid to those affected by the recent terror attack. She is also likely to be the show stopper for the ‘Mai Mumbai’ show on 28th March 2009. Vikram Chatwal Hotels directly contributes through Citizens for Justice and Peace (CJP), an organization founded by a group of Mumbai citizens like Teesta Setalvad, Alyque Padamsee, Javed Akhtar, Rahul Bose and more who among other initiatives have been working to provide relief and rehabilitation to victims of mass crimes including terrorism

FDPC – up and running full clip

The newly formed Fashion Design Promotion Council (FDPC), which created a buzz even before its formal inception, has shown the seriousness of its intent by associating with FDCI’s Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week’s Autumn-Winter-09 fashion extravaganza held last week. Raghavendra Rathore, in his capacity as the vice president of FDPC, was quoted in HT previously to have said, “To promote the talent pool of Indian designers, we will create a neutral domain within WLIFW. Senior fashion editors will be putting together a credible team of designers from the country together for this platform.” He also promised, “The FDPC will work towards a “special advisory body” with international professionals to help our designers package themselves better, and have deeper penetration in overseas markets.” At the WIFW AW-09, besides Raghavendra Rathore, Gaurav Gupta and Varun Sardana put up shows sponsored by the FDPC. Varun Sardana’s collection was brilliant and demanded a standing ovation. FDPC also had a stall near the main show area. While this government fashion body is yet being seen with a lot of skepticism, should it live up to its promised intent, it could change the face of the Indian fashion scene.

Dubai Fashion Week AW09 showcase in April

The fifth season of the Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) organized by Concept Events is scheduled to take place from April 5th-9th. The Godolphin Ballroom, Jumeirah Emirates Towers, Dubai is the designated venue for the event. More than 30 designers will show their collections ranging from couture to prêt à porter. The names of some local designers like Walid Atallah, Reem Ali Beljafla, HSY, Hatem Alakeel, Amal Murad, Salma Khan and Mariam Al Mazro were in the list of entries for participation.

A bright start – FDCI launches new season of WIFW AW09

The Indian season of the fashion weeks started with aplomb with two of the brightest stars on the fashion firmament, Nitin Bal Chauhan and Samant Chauhan, at the Will Lifestyle India Fashion Week promoted by the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI). The upbeat and efficient mood on the first day belied the many glitches that dogged this event until a few days before. The delay in deciding the dates did not come in the way of almost 175 and more registered buyers who are thronging to the venue in search of hot trends being shown by 102 participating designers. The new venue, Hotel Intercontinental Eros, has adapted itself very nicely to the requirements of this trade event. Besides the two Main Show Areas, a third ramp in the swimming pool for the upcoming designers is an innovative addition. Hope no one falls in, not even for the sake of the sensation hungry media. Glamorous show stoppers from Bollywood, child stars, Oscar aspirants, socialites on the ramp – much is happening this season. For inside reports on the event – watch this space.

Calvin Klein’s multi product offering for the year

Calvin Klein, a wholly owned subsidiary of Phillips-Van Heusen Corp, is set to roll out many initiatives and product launches in 2009, such as a new women’s and men’s ad campaign for Calvin Klein Underwear, a new ck Calvin Klein fragrance, and a new sub label of Calvin Klein Jeans called Body, for men and women. The dual gender jeans will be launched simultaneously across US, Europe and Asia. Latest report is that Premium Golf Brands (PGB), Europe's largest supplier of golf apparel have signed an exclusive global agreement with Calvin Klein, Inc., to produce and distribute the Calvin Klein Golf line of apparel and accessories.

Japan Fashion Week AW-09 buzz from Tokyo

The Japan Fashion Week AW-09 is winding up on the 29th in Tokyo. A lot of creativity is keeping the shows interesting. Prints, structured outerwear, printed tights, delicate dresses, innovative knits are all there in various interpretations. The element of drama was created by Né-net designer Kazuaki Takashima, who put his models in Mexican boxing marks. The Shinmai show for emerging design talents was introduced by lifelike robots. The overall response so far has been encouraging.



Estée Lauder signs Frida Pinto

Estée Lauder, the US based cosmetic giant, has set its eyes on the Indian markets and is signing the ‘in the news’ Indian show girl Frida Pinto to be their spokesperson. As per Euromonitor, India’s beauty business had generated sales of around $4.45 billion in 2007 and has grown in leaps and bounds since then. With an eye on this pie, the Estée Lauder Cos. acquired a minority stake in the Delhi based ayurvedic beauty care manufacturer, Forest Essentials. The first Estée Lauder store opened in the Galleria at Trident in Mumbai. With Pinto as the spokesperson, the company hopes to reach out to the new generation of Indian women.

High heels for infants – is there a law against that?

The designers are ever exploring greener pastures in search of new markets. Having run the gamut of designer bibs and diapers, their vision is now trained on toddler footwear. The toddler can now trade his/her booties for a new range of high-heeled knee-high leather boots to crawl around the crib. Reportedly, an American firm ‘Heelarious’ has designed the six-inch high boots, made from patent leather with silk lining on the inside. Some even come with silver spurs on the back and are available in two colours of black or pink; these have soft heels but are otherwise designed to look exactly like the adult version. Hayden Porter, owner of Heelarious was reported to have said, “The boots are a brand new range which we have just brought in and people are very excited about them. We have had quite a few orders already. The range of black boots is called ‘Jesse’ and is topped off with a pair of spiky silver fabric spurs sticking out of the back. Baby girls have Sadie range of boots which are pink with a silver silk lining and have heart-shaped spurs and chunky high heels.” Is that legal or do we need new laws.

Versene – Versace’s new fragrance

Donatella Versace has created a new contemporary, light and floral fragrance ‘Versene’ for women. She found her inspiration in the typical Versace woman, “who looks to the future, is always glamorous, decisive and sensual — even with her choice of perfume.” Created by Alberto Morillas from Firmenich, it is reminiscent of emeralds and the Mediterranean. The floral woody pale green juice of Versene combines Mediterranean top notes of bergamot, green mandarins, citrus fruit and prickly pear with a heart of jasmine, cardamom and sea daffodil, and a woody base of sandalwood and cedar wood mixed with olive tree and musk. Set for a US launch for April 10, Versense will be available in two eau de toilette sizes, 50 ml. for $65, 100 ml. for $85 and a 200 ml. body lotion for $40.

Fashion schools don recession glasses - reevaluating courses

The dull retail seasons, increasing unemployment, jobless designers not withstanding, the design schools are seeing a surge in the number of applicants. Schools such as Parsons, Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD), Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London, the Academy of Art University in San Francisco, the School of the Art Institute of Chicago and the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), are rethinking their training course formats. Institutes which have so far followed the freethinking, concept based curriculum, more experimental and with intellectual design aesthetics, so far did not pay much emphasis on marketing techniques but are now rethinking on how to train their new batch of designers. As per a report in the WWD, Walter Van Beirendonck, the director of fashion at the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts, said that faced by the specter of fewer jobs and start-up funds for designers he is adding new topics such as workshops in networking and business development with professionals. Many faculty speak now of a responsibility to nudge students toward stability, rather than just the runway. Lisa Wainwright, the acting dean of faculty at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago said, “As the economy shifts, it will force us all to think about issues of consumption and sustainability, material fetishism, commodity fetishism.”

WIFW Trend Overview of Autumn/Winter 2009-10

By M Mistry

It was an exciting and interesting line up of collections at Wills India Fashion Week for the Autumn/Winter 2009-10 season with designers presenting their interpretations for the end of the year in an innovative fashion.

Silhouettes

The shape of garments for men and women took a new turn as designers experimented with silhouettes for both sexes. There was the sharply tailored bespoke look for women’s suits, jackets and coats both in single and double breast styles. It was also the end of the low rise era and back to high waist skirts, pants, cigarette pants and culotte skirts. Emphasis was given to the various parts of garments like the shoulders, waist, sleeves, and collar which were exaggerated.

When it came to ethnic wear the floor length kurtas replaced their mini versions. While the angarkha style proved popular, the frock cut for kurtas with sheer luxurious gathers teamed with churidars was favoured by many designers. The kalidar kurta style also percolated down to tunics and jackets. While salwar dungarees took on a western touch with tie-ups; the oriental kimono and kaftan silhouettes with batwings, turned dresses and blouses into comfortable creations.

While hemlines for skirts, dresses and kurtas took on a more curved “U” shape which also appeared for the back necklines and scalloping. It was evident that the dress was the ruling garment for the coming season both for causal and formal wear while the maxis and gowns made some Red Carpet entries. The lean slim shapes were most evident for trousers, dresses, skirts, jackets and gowns although there was a sprinkling of “A” line shifts, trapeze and flapper dresses, cocoon minis and the return of the 70s look.

The lean look emphasized flat front and narrow pleated trousers for both sexes. Yet on the other hand there was evidence of the voluminous T silhouette with broad drooping or cowled shoulders and cinched hem dresses by some designers.

Men’s wear went casual with Bermudas and capris. An asymmetric overall look with styling texturing and layering at times was minimalist in bold western cuts that emphasized fabrics and textures. Men’s styling revealed some unusual touches as soft drapes and asymmetrical cuts gave an innovative touch. There was some elegant layering with shirts, pockets, kurtas and sherwanis while even knits had interesting prints for Tees.

Fabrics

The textures that emerged from the different fabrics proved that the Autumn/Winter season for 2009/10 will have a variety to choose from. Wool appeared as cable knit dresses, shrugs, bias skirts and ponchos. Matte and shine effects were used for discreet insets in tonal colours for dresses, jackets and trousers. There was some clever use of Trans opaque skin effect with fabrics for dresses and blouses. For a few designers jungle and animal prints came alive along with colours of nature.

Mix and match stories were achieved with prints, colours and fabric textures which resulted in ostrich or snake skin textures with a hint of leather scalloping added. At times there was a clever use of knit and satin for the front and back of dresses which gave a classy matte and shine touch to the garments.

Hot fabric choices resolved around net, velvet printed or plain, cashmere, wool, taffeta, suiting, muslin, organza, mohair, tweed, knits and faux fur. Knits in fact along with wool and cotton were the high point of most collections for drapy clingy tops and dresses. Fabric texturing was achieved with appliqués, 3D work and the blending of various materials.

Colors

The leading color for the coming season was black with shades of grey coming a close second. But the sombre tones was also broken up by varying hues of brown along with red, blue, yellow, purple and green - some in their muted dull versions while others were vibrant. Dull gold, silver and bronze added a lot of shimmer and shine to the more formal ensembles. The ombre treatment was still favored for garments whether they were in knits or woven textures. For the sari and kurtas there were several mixes of colours, fabrics and patterns to achieve a kitschy look.

Detailing

Adding some embellishments or detailing to a garment gives it that complete stylized look so it came in large quantities and innovative forms. Drawstrings on necklines, trousers, and hemlines were common but they also made a great fashion statement on paneled skirts which could raise the hemline at random spots. Trims appeared for most garments in velvet or faux fur and some great texturing was achieved with pleats, pin tucks and fish scales besides origami folds. Traditional craft of India as well as Turkey and the Banjaran and tribal embroidery added to the beauty of the garments. Discreet smocking and pleating often stated that “less is more” on a garment. Deep side “V” pockets and quirky pleating on long gowns as well as extended cuffs and shoulders, chandelier sleeves, one lapel jackets and high waist trousers gave interesting fashion directions. Cutwork was by lazer in abstract designs while a mix of velvet and net crafted flowers for dresses, hems and skirts was the interesting touch. Textured jackets and shirts appeared for men’s wear along with double collars for men and women.

Piping was favored for jacket pocket flats, jackets and lapels, while leather played a major role for garments like bund gala jackets for men as well as piping contrasts and leather beads as embellishments. To achieve some interesting silhouettes for women there was a combination of side pleating and draping teamed with pin tucks and smocking. Cowls are still in fashion for shirts, pants, skirts and dresses while embroidery was used to create innovative fabric textures and psychedelic patterns.

Accessories

The most essential item here was stockings in vibrant colours in solids or stripes, printed or flocked. These were balanced by platform with stiletto heel shoes, wedge heels, ankle or knee high boots. Large spacious totes, duffels or tiny evening clutches, pouches and bags added a perfect touch to the outfits. Headgear was wild and wacky or simple knitted skull caps, scarves, berets or funky helmets.

The Roddler for the rich kid

KidKustoms have designed a stroller called ‘The Roddler’, which is quite a fashion statement. It has a lightweight monocoque chassis and can be personalized with a custom paint job or choice of leather covering. Other options not mentioned but doable are video screens, blue tooth, iPod dock and you can think up some more.

Skinny jeans redefined

Rock & Republic have on offer leggings which are screen printed to look like jeans with pockets, buttons, seams and sometimes even different washes and wrinkles. Talk about skin tight or skinny jeans.

The vast resource of our cultural heritage is the skill and crafts of the artisan who sits unseen and unheard in remote corners of the country ensuring that the thread remains unbroken as it carries forward the tradition of generations before him. The Indian fashion industry has a symbiotic relationship with these crafts persons and has utilized their skills to make a mark on the international runways. Be it embroideries, weaves, dyeing techniques, prints, textiles, metal work, it is these inputs which make the India designer collections stand out. This column's focus is news related to the handicrafts sector.

‘Bandhani’ and ‘Dabhda’ to be patented under GI Act

As per the Ahemdabad Textile Industry Research Association (ATIRA), 'Bandhani' (tie and dye craft) and 'Dabhda' (handwoven shawls of Kutch), both native art of Gujarat, will now get the protection of a patent under the Geographical Indiation (GI) Act. R M Shankar, principal scientific officer of ATIRA is reported to have said, "We have completed the documentation for Bandhani of Saurashtra and Dabhda of Kutch, and very soon will be filing patent applications for the crafts under GI Act at Chennai." This initiative is part of the project, "Intellectual Property Protection through GI Act for Bandhani (Tie & Dye) and Dabhda of Gujarat", which happened after the formation of the association of the stake holders in Jamnagar and Kutch. ATIRA also plans to apply for the GI patent for Patan district's 'Patola',another famous traditional saree craft in the state. However, it got delayed due to infighting in the traditional family members who are expert in making 'Patola'. Sankar said,"We will convene meetings of stake holders of Patola fabric in Patan, and are hopeful of resolving the dispute over the craft through sensitizing them about the relevance of protecting this traditional craft by GI patent." He disclosed that the Salvi family of Patan which has the trade secrets for manufacturing Patola is not willing to pass on the know how of this craft even to next generation, due to business rivalry. This makes it essential that all traditional crafts should be patented in order to protect it, even if from those who have inherited it and are willing to let it die.

Minister calls for innovation in Indian handicrafts

The Indian Handicrafts and Gifts Fair- Spring 2009, which was held last month at the INDIA EXPO CENTRE & MART in Greater Noida, was inaugurated by E.V .K. S. Elangovan, the Minister of State for Textiles. The Minister noted that in order to keep the export of Indian handicrafts alive, it is necessary for more innovation in this area. He reportedly said, “We need to develop new, innovative items to compete in the international market besides upgrading design and technology to boost handicraft exports.” Indian exports have fallen by almost 40% in this fiscal. In order to make up for the absence of buyers from US and UK, Latin American buyers have been invited. Colombian beauty queen Miss Colombia Universe 2008, Taliana Vargas, was one of the specially invited to add glamour. Rakesh Kumar, executive director Export Promotion Council for Handicrafts said, “The fair is spread over 97,000-square-metre exhibition area, featuring products of 1,500 exhibitors and home furnishing textiles and handicrafts is expected to generate sizeable enquiries and business orders for the Indian handicraft sector.”

Khamir brings desert blooms from Kutch to the Capital

Meera Goradia’s initiative for the craft persons in Kutch in Western Gujarat, Khamir, was in town again to show the mastery of its weavers at the Aga Khan Hall. The star burst of colours, weaves, embroideries in the textiles of Kutch defy the fact that the artisan lives in an arid, yellow, dusty landscape. The exotica are interpreted into affordable and immensely wearable style statements. The new initiative this time were the products made out of recycled waste acrylic yarn woven into fabric. Some of the items on sale were, large 24”x 24” cushion covers for Rs 390 each, pure wool red muffler with tone on tone embroidery for Rs480, a classic ‘mor-gala’ pure silk sari for Rs 8,000 and a fine weave shawl for Rs 2,500.

Re-engineering Fashion Education

A small news item above might be missed by most but has tremendous ramifications for the future of fashion education. Some of the best known fashion schools in the West are looking at re-engineering fashion design courses. This is not because of falling student enrolment in a recessionary economy – it is actually going up. The academic experts feel that the earlier ‘creativity only’ and an ‘esoteric aloofness’ approach to fashion education must give in to a new reality. There is a ‘big bad world’ out there and any prospective designer can make it a success only by connection to market. Some of the steps include having courses in ‘networking’ and ‘business development’. Going further, future fashion would need to be more affordable and ‘user friendly’ whatever its antecedents. Not all the changes that taking place are cyclical. Some like global warming, issues of sustainability, wasteful consumerism, etc are unlikely to go away. This is a good time as any for fashion schools to open their eyes wide, introspect and consider re-engineering their courses and perhaps even…mission!