Presents
  IF - 019   25 April, 2009
 





> Bangalore Fashion Week debuts in July
> Swatch snags Manish Arora to design new watch line
> Dries Van Noten to be honored by the Couture Council
> FDPC’s Fashion Hub in Delhi plans on the roll
> Fendi gung ho about its ‘Craft Punk’ event
> National Jewelry Institute holds first watch exhibition


     
  FEATURE


WOW – amazing, spectacular (!)

By Neelima Mishra Agrawal

The first reaction that is elicited from the viewer of the displays at the World of Wearable Art show is a WOW, which so aptly is the acronym of this spectacular extravaganza called the Montana World of WearableArt™ Awards. A two hour show where art, design, music, lighting, special effects are all choreographed into an experience which someone so succinctly described as ‘Mardi Gras meets Haute Couture at a Peter Gabriele concert directed by Salvador Dali’.

The story about the origins of this show began in 1987 in the town of Nelson in New Zealand. Local sculpture Suzie Moncrieff despaired at the dull state of affairs at the rural art gallery. Not one to be wallowing in self pity, she took a proactive stance and thought (widely quoted since then) that why not ‘take art off the wall and out of static display & adorn the body in wildly wonderful ways. Celebrate creativity in lavish and unique on stage spectaculars-that inspire all’ and conceived and presented an art exhibition in the form of a live theatrical show. Her humble initiative elicited a whoopee response and has gone on to become a much awaited ten day cultural fest staged in Wellington, with international participation of more than 150 designers, NZ$100,000 in prize money, long list of sponsors and an audience of 35,000 who stand in long Qs to buy a ticket.

While designers from other Asian countries like Thailand, Japan, South Korea have been participating since some time, the Indian initiative started in 2005 when FDCI officially partnered with WOW and invited designers to put up their entries for selection. The New Zealand High Commissioner’s residence turns into a show area in the month of April where the best designs are selected for the main show to be held in September each year. While last year only three designs were short listed for entry, the 21st season of Montana WOW™ 2009 will see as many as twelve garments by nine Indian designers to be judged in New Zealand. The level of craftsmanship is excellent and hopefully most of them will be selected for competing in their categories. In 2006, two NIFT Delhi students, Narresh Kukreja and Shivan Bhatia’s ‘Bee Hive Bra’ entry in the Bizarre Bra category won many accolades. The next year, 2007 had Pearl Academy’s Jayaraj NP’s ‘The Weaver Finch Colony’ winning the MainPower WOW® Factor Award chosen by Suzie Moncrieff as the most innovative garment. Jayaraj NP along with Pooja Bedi participated again in 2008 to showcase ‘Emerald Tentacles’. Other entries were ‘I the Centre’ by Pooja Gosain and ‘Cockroach Bra’ by Pooja Rajput, along with Manish Arora’s Butterfly Dress featuring more than 1000 hand crafted butterflies and encrusted with Swarovski crystals. So exotic was the garment that it was put up for display at the WOW museum in Nelson for six months. While the fate of these designers selected to compete in the finals in September yet hangs in the balance, the three top entries will already receive an award of Rs 30,000 from FDCI and get to be hosted by Tourism New Zealand.


The garments that look like art installations are undefinable and quite unforgettable; one might imagine that a lot of staples, pins, glue and scotchtape goes into putting up these spectacles. But that is far from the truth since the very stringent norms laid out by the organisers categorically bans all of the above. So all those elaborate and out-of this-world structures on parade on the ramp are garments of sound construction, safe to wear, not excessively heavy and complete in their conceptualisation ie a skirt must have a top to match. Naturally. They also have height and width regulations which exhorts the entries to ‘ensure the garment can safely negotiate 45 degree ramps, is not wider than 1 ½ metres at floor level and does not exceed 3 metres in height or length’. The awards too are divided under very interesting categories such as Bizarre Bra and Illusion & Illumination and the children’s styles are independelty judged. Is it any wonder that Gladys Perint Palmer, Executive Director of Fashion from the Academy of Art Universityin San Francisco and 2007 International judge described WOW®, “Eat your heart out John Galliano, Hussein Chalayan, Thierry Mugler, Vivienne Westwood and John Paul Gaultier”.

 

Children's Section
Illumination
Bizarre Bra


 
  INDIA NEWS
 

FDPC’s Fashion Hub in Delhi plans on the roll

Without wasting much time on its plans to work towards improving the lot of Indian fashion designers, the Advisory Committee of Fashion Design Promotion Council (FDPC), the apex government recognized body of fashion in India has unveiled its mega plans for the setting up the Fashion Hub in Delhi. The Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India will be allotted a 10 acre plot by the DDA near IGNOU campus in Maidan Garhi. Set to take off in the current financial year 2009- 2010, the proposed Fashion Hub will be implemented under the administrative control of the Ministry of Textile through Public Private Partnership as proposed by the Planning Commission. As per the press release, the Fashion Hub will act as a permanent Fashion Gallery that will project the image of contemporary India displaying the modern look of India along with the rich Indian heritage.

 



 
 

"A woman’s wardrobe shouldn’t change every six months. You should be able to use the pieces you already own and add to them. Because they are like timeless classics."

Yves Saint Laurent in an interiew in 1983
 
     
 


Bangalore Fashion Week debuts in July

The first edition of the Bangalore Fashion Week (BFW) will be held from 23rd to 26th July, 2009. The event management company Dream Merchants is the organizer and promoter of BFW, the first such event in South India. The list of participating designers and the venue are yet to be disclosed.


Twelve wow designs for the Montana WOW Art

Fashion Design Council of India and The Montana WOW™ have pre selected twelve dazzling garments for judging at the Montana World of WearableArt™ Awards Show to be held in September at Wellington in New Zealand. The designs were showcased at the residence of the New Zealand’s High Commissioner, H.E Mr.Rupert Holborow . Also in attendance were New Zealand’s Trade Commissioner, Mr. Cliff Fuller, Mr. Sunil Sethi, President, FDCI, fashion designers, dignitaries and eminent guests. The event was sponsored by Thomas Cook and Tourism New Zealand and choreographed by ‘The Production House’.
The WOW season runs from Septeber 24th – October 4th with awards night held on Friday Sept 25th at TSB Bank Arena at Queens Wharf.

Two Fashion Week seasons – to be or not to be

The fashion fatigue seems to be setting into the Fashion Week events which have grown in numbers and the winds of change may be blowing again. Ignore international model, be Indian is what Wendel Rodricks says naming the two seasons as Summer and Wedding/Festive. As quoted in DNA Correspondent, he said, “what is best for most designers is to ignore the seasonal call. We show summer in March and festive in September/October..And who gives a damn about meeting international needs? This is India! We have to adapt to 'us'.” Fashion expert Meher Castellino speaks along the same line and explains it further in her feature in Financial Chronicle, “ I suggest members of the Indian fashion industry attend the annual garment expo by the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India. These expos have been held faithfully (for over four decades) every July. Here, ready-to-wear brands display their collections for the festive and summer seasons. These clothes are bought (in large numbers) by retailers. Their booking numbers are so huge it could easily put the Indian fashion industry to shame.” All outcome will be reported here-no change in that.


Swatch snags Manish Arora to design new watch line


Manish Arora’s exotic design sense seems to go down well with all brands seeking to spike up their product. Arora has successfully anchored Discovery’s Travel show, ‘The Adventures of a Ladies Tailor’, associated with Reebok, designed the packaging of MAC cosmetics and Nivea and is now adding bling to a new line of watches for Swatch, the Swiss watch maker. Swatch’s new spring/summer 2009 line has six watches designed by Manish Arora in his trade mark style, which is bright colours depicting kitchy pop culture and Bollywood imagery. The watches will be available at Swatch outlets and are priced between Rs 4,450 and Rs 16,200.

   
  INTERNATIONAL NEWS  
   
 


Fendi gung ho about its ‘Craft Punk’ event

The Fendi Foundation for Design, the Italian luxury fashion brand’s initiative, in collaboration with Design Miami, launched its first ‘Craft Punk’ event during the Salone del Mobile in Milan. As reported in WWD, designers from various countries including Japan, South Korea and Slovakia will take up residence temporarily to create designs from discarded materials from Fendi’s handbag factory in Florence. To assist them, Fendi is providing 10 of their expert artisans. The Fendi Foundation aims to assist young industrial designers in finding more global exposure through such high-profile initiatives rather than set up permanent museum displays. Michael Burke, CEO Fendi, reportedly said that the completed objects would travel to USA and Japan next year.


Dries Van Noten to be honored by the Couture Council

The Belgian designer Dries Van Noten will be honored by the Couture Council with their 2009 Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion at the organization’s fourth annual luncheon, scheduled to take place at Cipriani 42nd Street on September 9. Noten launched his label in 1986. As told to WWD, Valerie Steele, director and chief curator of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology comented on his ‘incredible sensitivity to colour, to pattern and to ornamentation - and the way he has searched the world to find crafts people who can do what he wants them to do - is extraordinary.’


National Jewelry Institute holds first watch exhibition

The National Jewelry Institute (NJI) in New York, in conjunction with ‘Sparkle Week Spring 2009’ is holding its first watch exhibition, ‘Time and the Jeweler’s Art’ at The Forbes Galleries on Fifth Avenue from April 24 to June 27. NJI is non-profit organization which focuses on exquisite jewelry masterpieces of America, France and fine ancient jewelry. The exhibition will feature 40 contemporary time pieces from such participants as Dior Watches, Harry Winston, H. Stern, Piaget, Tiffany & Co., Timex, Valentino Timeless, Van Cleef & Arpels, Vincent Bérard, and Patrizzi & Co. Auctioneers. The highlights include Van Cleef & Arpels’ diamond, mother-of-pearl and platinum “Snowflake” design and Piaget’s satin, diamond and 18-karat white gold “Puzzle” watch with movable parts on the dial.



It’s about loving your camouflage

Dan Johnson is the co-founder of the New York based Love Fatigues clothing company, which specializes in designer camouflage. The primary mission of the designers of the Love Fatigues collection is to promote peace in this world and create an army of love – preferably wearing their sexy and colourful camouflage tops. And also to convince people that the camouflage print can be associated with love and not just war etc. Reportedly Johnson said, “"Our philosophy is to show another way for people to view camouflage. Traditionally, people think of the military and the killing of our enemies, but we have the opposite vision and are eager to change these perceptions." Log into www.lovefatigues.com for these very pretty, form fitted V necks.



Christie’s auctions exotic jewelry

Christie’s, the world renowned auction house is having a jewelry sale comprising exotic diamond baubles, one weighing as much as 32.72 carats, a Burmese ruby set weighing 6.76 carat and sapphires in exotic settings. A gem encrusted elephant dates back 1900 and is the center piece of the show.



The designer and his muse

The designer is constantly seeking inspiration to create his next masterpiece, something that will dazzle on the runway. The fashion runways for Spring-Summer 2009 showed designs that clearly had the animal kingdom playing the muse. Did the Montreal based designer Reneta Morales have jelly fish on her mind for this lovely dress? Or the genius of Lucian Matis poach on the colours of the gold fish for the L’Oreal Toronto Fahsion Week. Other inspirations were - the Korean designer Jo Myung Rye by sharks at the Seoul Fahion Week S/S-09; Chongfu’s unraveled cassette tapes at the China Fashion Week S/S-09; the Cherry Project’s rat fixation at Mexico Fashion Week S/S-09; Edgardo Luenga’s sea slug gown at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Mexico - S/S-09.

     
  TRENDS  
     
 

Interfilière’s Colour projections for s/s 2010

The colours for the next spring/summer season of 2010 were worked out by Eurovet and introduced at Interfilière's expo in Paris early this year. The experts were unanimous that grim economic times demand hope, inspiration and colour – lots of it. Twenty five shades in all are played out in 4 themes. The colours which will rule, as marked out at Interfilière’s site, are the greens (Stars of the season), guests of honour are nuances of red and soft and refined pinks, mauves and neutrals are in full evolution. Also that bright and neon accents will work for beachwear and white and indigo blue will continue to remain in focus.

Source - INTERFILIERE-Trends-Summer-2010

   
  NEW CONCEPTS
   
 


U Discs – the new fashion statement


Considering that it has become a must-have item for all tech savvy student, worker, designer, shopper et al to possess a U-disc (USB flash disc), why not acquire one that is well embelished with Swarovski crystals or enamel detail. Catering to the style conscious are many a companies out there with FASN from China leading the pack. The FASN Art U-discs are becoming a luxury and style statemnt in themselves. While ‘aoni’ has erleased its anti-virus encrypted U-disc series and the Moscow company Man Works has designed submarine USB flash discs to make it water-proof, it is the very fashionable and pretty Art U-discs which are sought after.

   
  ARTISAN
   
 

In the age of rapid mechanization and high tech advancements it is the artisan who holds the thread of a tradition of ancient skills. Cut away from the mainstream these artisan groups struggle to hold on to what they have inherited and many social groups have come forward to support them. Newsvision introduces its readers to various artisan groups and their crafts from across the globe in this column.


Nomadic Tuareg at the edge of the Sahara

The vast continent of Africa is home to many a diverse ethnic groups and the Turareg (as the explorers chose to call them) are one large group of nomads of the Sahara and Sahel region whose caravans have crisscrossed the Sahara for thousands of years. In their own language they call themselves ‘Tamasheq’ or ‘the free people’. Being a matrilineal culture, the women hold autonomous positions in their society which is contrary to the cultural norms of this region including Niger, Mali, Algeria, Burkina Faso, and Lybia. These nomads travel light, carrying with them their wealth of self crafted exquisite jewelry and leather items. Many social initiatives have supported the ancient skill of these artisans.



 
 

Raghurajpur – a heritage village

A few kilometers from Puri and on the banks of river Bhargavi is located the tiny but extraordinary village of Raghurajpur. Entire families (almost 100) of this village have been involved for generations in the several (nine) art forms like `Patta chitra', `Matha chitra' (painting on tussar silk fabric), `Talapatra chitra' (painting on palm leaf), wood carving, stone sculpture, paper masks, cow dung toys, coconut painting and `ganjapa' playing cards. The artists use vegetable or mineral extracts for colour and brushes made of mouse hair. Practically every house boasts of a President’s medal. In 2002 it earned the status of a heritage village. Guru Kelucharan Mohapatra, who revived the Odissi dance, belonged to Raghurajpur as also does Guru Maguni Charan Das, the Gotipua guru who was awarded the Padma Shri recently.

  EVENTS CALENDAR
   
 
From
TO
Event
Location
21-Apr-2009
24-Apr-2009
Bridal Fashion Week
New York City
21-Apr-2009
27-Apr-2009
MILANO MODA DESIGN
Italy
27-Apr-2009
01-May-2009
Rosemount Australian Fashion Week S/S 2009
Sydney
25-Jun-2009
28-Jun-2009
Men's Fashion Spr/Smr 2010
Paris
06-Jul-2009
09-Jul-2009
Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2009-10
Paris
23-Jul-2009
26-Jul-2009
Bangalore Fashion Week(BFW)
Bangalore
11-Sep-2009
13-Sep-2009
Couture Fashion Week
New York City
18-Sep-2009
22-Sep-2009
London Fashion Week 2009
United Kingdom
24-Sep-2009
04-Oct-2009
Montana WOW® Awards Show 2009
TSB Bank Arena, Queens Wharf, Wellington.
   
  PHONETICS FOR THE FASHIONISTA
   
 

The fashion kingdom is gone global and the sundry Italian, French, Japanese, Chinese etc fashion brands and names of different origins are foxing us as to how to pronounce them correctly. Newsvision has it all simplified for you.



Balenciaga
- bal-en-see-aga

Cristobal Balenciaga was a Spanish fashion designer who started out in early the 1950’s. Besides being a successful name he also trained other designers, one such being Oscar de la Renta. While Balenciaga passed away in 1972, his namesake brand is owned by the Gucci group. The signature style of the label continues to remain the same, hip and classy. Besides amazing apparel, Balenciaga has also made a name for making sleek handbags in a variety of colours.




Lanvin
- lon-van

Lanvin is the oldest and one of most prestigious fashion houses in Paris. It was started by Jeanne Lanvin, born 1867 in an impoverished family. She introduced the ‘war crinoline’ dress as an improved alternative to the restrictive hobble skirts, and the ‘flapper dress’. Since her death in 1946, the house of Lanvin has changed hands many times among LVMH and L’Oreal but was re-privatized in 2001with Alber Elbaz as the creative director who was named one of the Time Magazine’s 100 Most Influential People in The World

March 2009 Hussein Chalayan - who-sain sha-lie-on
  Christian Lacroix - chris-tee-an la-kwa
February 2009 Zegna - Dz-enn-ah
  Salvatore Ferragamo - sal-va-tour-ay fer-er-gar-mow
January 2009 Narciso Rodriguez - nar-see-so rod-re-gez
  Nicolas Ghesquiere - nicola guess-key-air
December 2008 Marchesa - mar-key-sa
  Moschino - moss-key-no
   
  PEARL ACADEMY OF FASHION
 


Pearl student wins Top Prize at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion week.


Ms. Megha Nagpal, a Fashion Design student of Pearl Academy of Fashion, New Delhi won the top award in “The Debut” section at the recently concluded Wills India Fashion week. The contest witnessed an overwhelming response from students of all top fashion and design schools in India like NIFT, NID and Pearl Academy of Fashion. Out of a total of 290 entries, the creations of 45 finalists were presented before eminent jury during regional rounds held at Kolkatta, Banglore & Mumbai. Ms. Megha’s creations which were showcased during Wills Lifestyle India Fashion week drew universal acclaim due to the innovative theme “Want More” and mature conceptualization. On her winning creations she said “The concept of my collection was garments that can be worn in more than one way. I wanted to give the buyers multiple options of wearing the same garment so that they can have unique and individual look”.

 

Pearl Academy of Fashion celebrates anniversary of India Tourism in Beijing through enchanting fashion show

~PAF alumni design exclusive garments symbolizing the cultural and culinary Indian traditions ~

Indian Fashion marked its footprints in Beijing as India Tourism Office celebrated its first anniversary in association with Pearl Academy of Fashion. At the exclusive fashion show ‘An Enchanting Evening’ – a special programme hosted by Embassy of India in Beijing on April 7, 2009, well known fashion designers, who are all alumni of Pearl Academy of Fashion showcased the heritage & cultural wealth of India through a collection of rich ensembles that illustrated innovative and creative use of surface ornamentation, weaves, prints, embroideries and the Indian craftsmanship.

The overall look of the show reflected Indian design sensibilities and skills through silhouettes, fabric, color and surface ornamentation. The collection comprised traditional Indian garments which were hand-woven, embroidered, tie-dyed or blocks printed by skilled craftsmen from different parts of India. From most beautiful and classic traditional Indian costume the ‘Saree’ to the designer ‘Salwar Kameez’ in rich fabrics like cotton, soft georgette, Indian Mulberry silk, tussar silk, masshru silk and casement cotton, to popular Indian bridal wear, ‘Lehanga Choli’ embroidered with exquisite metal work, sequins and gold thread, the ethnic element and traditional touch of the Indian costume came alive on the ramp.

Fascinating cuts, breathtaking Indian silhouettes and dynamic use of colours and fabrics defined the transcendent collections. Inspired from colors of Radha Krishna pictorial art, Abdul Halder’s collections had a dramatic focus to traditional elements. Using rich fabrics like velvet, chiffon and silk extravagantly embroidered in gold, silver and gotta work; the collections were designed in jewel colors of red, rust, green and bright pink. Rohit Mittal’s collection was richly ornamented with crystal work taking it to an international level that can be worn by women globally. SEWA’s (Self Employed Women’s Association) collection comprised beautiful and colorful, traditional Kutch embroidered jackets and tops teamed with block printed, natural dyed Ajrak prints skirts and trousers. Other PAF alumni and eminent fashion designers who presented their collections included Mandira Wirk, Varun Gupta, Harangad Singh, Smriti Sharma, Abdul & Suleman Khatri etc. Stunning Chinese models sashayed down the ramp donning these breath-taking costumes.

Elated at the response to the event, Mr. A.K.G Nair, Group Director, Pearl Academy of Fashion said, “India’s rich culture, vast heritage and regional diversity have contributed immensely to the fashion of the country, lending it various flavors. We are honoured to be given an opportunity to represent our country on a global platform. One good turn out of such events is the exposure of the designers into the international stage, which consequently facilitates profitable business for the Indian fashion industry.”


   
  EDITORIAL
   

It's raining fashion weeks

The absurdity of proliferating Fashion Weeks in India has reached almost hilarious if not tragic proportions. First there was the FDCI Week which continues to be what Fashion Weeks are meant to be – a platform for designers to showcase their work to the media and buyers. Then there was the Lakme breakaway timed a week apart in Mumbai and built on the commercial and promotion desires of a single brand. Next came Delhi Fashion Week riding on the FDCI dates and built on the ego’s of one person and the ambitions of a small coterie. With the Kolkata and Bangalore Fashion Weeks in tow, though mercifully with different dates, it is certainly raining Fashion Weeks. The plethora no doubt is a salute to Indian commercial profligacy even if it borders on the reckless. At Rs450cr, the Indian fashion design industry does not even add up to one per cent of Indian apparel and does not even match up to turnover of the bigger apparel brands. There has also been valid criticism that the Western prescribed fashion seasons imposed do not reflect Indian realities. Further, Indian commercial dynamics does not work a season ahead in most cases. Perhaps what is really required is a single Fashion Week and some specialised platforms and market weeks later in the year. Unfortunately, this is one area that does not come under Government statutes but only on one’s personal and commercial sensibilities.

EDITOR IN CHIEF : VINOD KAUL
EDITOR : NEELIMA MISHRA AGRAWAL