On the second day of the VHIMW, the designer team of Ankita and Anjana presented a saleable, no fuss, summer prêt line for the men, which was short and sweet and infused with the mood of minimal luxe.

Shirts, kurtis, shirts inspired by kurtis, knitted long kurtas, full sleeve shirts – a blend of classic leisure wear most appropriate for the local summer. The detailing was kept interesting with pocket placements and interesting twists to the collar. Regular shirt collars, hanky collars, cowls, muffler drapes, an occasional patch bib yokes with tone on tone embroidery, long kurtas with cuffed sleeves, even an occasional shawl drape. A lone waistcoat made an appearance over a kurti teamed with shorts.

Slim pants, Bermudas, cuffed shorts, drop crotch pants and versions of the jouaves – all well teamed with the easy upper wear. The silhouette was relaxed and the colour palette never strayed far from the tones of white and off-white.

Natural fabrics like soft gauze cottons, hand crushed silks and pashmina weave tussar combinations matched the mood of the capsule collection of the menswear classic line. Here was a line which was a sure winner for its marketability factor.

Manoviraj Khosla the only designer from southern part of India showcased ‘Sunshine in the Dark’ quite literally as he started with acidic bright colours, gradually moving into dark blacks and metallic grids. Manoviraj has always stuck to the very basic shapes and styles for effortless shoppers and this has not changed since the first collection I recall, way back in 19…whatever, at the first Fashion Week in Delhi. Trends change but basics only get tweaked, that’s what he did.

The extensive range was eclectic with several micro collections put together for the show, each sporting a diverse mood and aesthetics.

The casual collection of biker shorts and classic waist jackets tipped with smart slippers in matching bright fruity colours evoked a beach holiday mood. Skinny tees in deep bright colours and dark jeans for city wear casuals were smart and sexy.

It is the Bund galas, sherwanis and Nehru jacket collection that looked gawky and assorted. Flock print graphics in rainbow colours on black, kalamkari prints with thread embroidery in earthy colours and grid metallic graphics on blacks lacked direction and cohesiveness expected of an artistic professional. Aesthetics apart, the collection should be a commercial success as it offered something for everyone.

Bottoms were the normal straight cut and slim fit. Linen fabrics prevailed with bits of cotton, suede and polynosic. It was evident at the end of the show when he walked the ramp like a billboard, that he enjoys the undying support of his sponsors who continue to back him year after year.

In their first outing under the label Karan Johar + Varun Bahl in a Delhi fashion fiesta, the designers presented a very sophisticated collection that well represented the theme ‘The Magical Metropolis’. A video clip of the Brooklyn Bridge, streets of Manhattan, suburbia of New York preceded the show. The collection’s first half was distinctly different from the second in sensibility and styling and was possibly representative of the two designers’ individual influences.

Smart shirts, stylish jackets ranging from semi formal to casual leisure wear, some with interesting strap detailing at back that was also reflected on trouser bottoms, a white jacket teamed with printed shorts, two button regular corduroy with double pocket flaps and teamed with pencil slim pants. Regular slim trousers, low crotch, well tailored shorts, denim jeans, blue denim. A prominent shift visible in the second half were formal jackets heavy on construction details on lapels, pockets, collars, several elements that had the Varun Bahl stamp. The New York skyline and road signage showed up as print on the shorts, trousers and jackets. The silhouette remained casual for the Metropolitan line that was made up of linen, coated linen, cotton, voile, treated cotton, jersey and corduroy. The mood setters were dark and smoky tones ranging from blacks, shades of grey, tobacco, clear whites, occasional holiday red, deep denim blue. The bag showed up as the prominent accessory – and very attractive ones too.

The collection stayed true to the theme that keeps in mind both, the casual dresser and the careful dresser, and gives them plenty of alternatives. Varun Bahl’s credentials as a fashion designer were established long ago. But it is Karan Johar, who has laid to rest all such doubts of merely being a successful Bollywood producer dabbling in fashion, and made it clear that he will be counted from here on.

Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna strived beyond their sterling reputation with ‘The Travelogues’. Expecting to see a Harley Davidson style collection one was pleasantly surprised to see a sublime narrative, of an attitude driven road traveller’s, rich experiences in perpetuation.

The collection was a stylish reconciliation of grunge and deconstruction with sartorial finishes and trims, still a rarity in our industry. The natty yet chic ensembles were well styled, with jackets, biker jackets, bomber jackets classic coats in washed and dyed denims and linen, coordinated with basic shirts with sequined surfaces and low crotch, tapered Capri pants, comfortable footwear and right amount of attitude.

Trims like zips, buttons, tapes, piping, topstitching on seams pockets, patches and flaps added functional comfort and sporty appeal to the overall look. Clever use of new and beaten techniques added magical mystic to basic forms and cuts.

Sand washed and stone washed denims and linens were dyed and ombre` dyed, metallics were re-worked upon with a vintage appeal.

Colour palette was monochromatic with muted shades of washed blacks, grey and chalky off-whites, apt for the worn in look of a global hunter.