It was Gaurav Jai Gupta's debut fashion week appearance and the reticent designers did not disappoint the audience as his line of 29 garments glided down the ramp under his label Akaaro. Having won several awards in India as well as recognition abroad, Gaurav unlike other designers prefers to allow his work speak for him. A master at weaving fabrics of the unconventional kind, the collection was crated from h andwoven fabrics using stainless steel, ring spun cotton, silk and high twist cotton along with a detailed jacquard design which were designed after a long and lengthy process. With most of the fabrics having an engineered pattern; the hand dyeing and designing of the fabrics was styled to fit into the styles.

The colour palette was very subdued with ice blue, white, pale green, yellow and a shimmer of steel and an occasion wine or black being perfect for the ensembles. Titled '21 Burns' inspired by the film called '21 Grams' by the Mexican director Alejandro Gonsalez Inarritu; Gaurav's show opened with a one shoulder stainless steel cotton and silk dress followed by another with horizontal stripes and asymmetric hemline.

There was fine detailing for the weaves for the blouse and trousers, while the dresses with stripes and the long sleeve blouse were comfortable summer wear. An interesting entry was the rouched side panel dress while two inverted woven 'V' design fabrics fitted well into a high twist cotton dress. A simple long sleeve maroon blouse with trousers, a pleated shawl collar halter tunic, an asymmetric side rouched dress and the layered with different weaves steel cotton silk engineered dress were the other eye-catchers of the show.
Simplicity speaks louder than over designed creations and Gaurav Jai Gupta proved that his language is the right one. With his dedication to work it is certain that this debut collection will be just one of the many that he will present on the ramps of not only Indian fashion weeks but around the world.

Priyadarshini presented a luxury prêt collection for Spring Summer 2011. Her styles were contemporary classics far removed from the fleeting fashion fad stories. Muted freshness of the summery prints with breezy volumes transpired into a romantic fusion of east and west.

Long tiered dresses in soft translucent voiles beautifully captured the cosmic energy of swirling dancers in a mystical trance.

The silhouette was long and A-line with light weight muls cut into long tiered skirts, crinkled into dresses and shaped into large skirts

Drop waist tunic dresses in patchwork prints combined peasant chic with contemporary edge.

Soft detailing like scoop necklines trimmed with delicate frills, pin tuck lines on yokes and bodice looked naïve and feminine.

Trapeze dresses layered with maxi skirts were beautiful.
The low crotch harem pants were yet another favourite for summer 2011.

Pyjama bottoms with baby doll tops added a new dimension to her contemporary look. The long shirt dresses cut like kurta were teamed with long flared skirts and pyjamas. Also were seen anarkali style kurtas looking completely different.

Cocoa, peach, coffee bean, sunset yellow, ivory and indigo blue colours were understated.

And cotton muls, voiles, raw edged knits and silk muls were airy light.

'Gypsy Masala' by Ashish, Viral and Vikrant was a flamboyant presentation inspired by the gypsies of the world.

The show began with a dance sequence in flamenco dresses, setting the mood for the evening. Multi- paneled-layered- flared dresses swirled seamlessly from western beats to Indian banjaras in a festive mode. Bright colours and decorative elements like patch worked prints, ethnic embroideries, contrast edgings and much more characterized the look.

Glimpses of moghul, rajasthani and gujarati aesthetics could be seen in voluminous sharara skirts with short kurtis, flared tops teamed with churidars, salwars and peasant dresses.

They added a lot of accessories especially bold neck pieces, thick bangles bandanas and decorative foot wear to complete the look.

The designers mentioned their focus on eco friendly measures to recycle and reduce waste. They used low impact dyes and hand block prints on organic fabrics like cotton, muslin and linen.

Colour palette remained deep with crimson, red, henna green, mustard yellow and white.

A few odd pieces like the high waisted skirt should have been edited from the show.

Overall a playful, cheerful and vibrant folk collection using rolls of fabric for those banjara skirts and dresses.

It is the return of the Grassroot label from Anita Dongre for Spring/Summer2011, but this time to promote the Shop for Change Fair Trade in India. The collection on the ramp was made with cotton grown by farmers from Chetna Organic Agriculture Producer Company, which is a great idea since fashion should promote the concept of organic products on all fronts.

Inspired by the 50s to 70s look, it was relaxed pret line, very feminine and comfortable for those very hot and humid summer days. Playing with colours for the three different segments with pretty block prints and hand embroidery Anita created a pleasing fun collection.

The first 50s section had whites in all their pristine glory with pink and green in pastel tones for prints and tiny floral embellishment. Blouses with pin tucks and sequinned shoulders were teamed with printed linen shorts, dresses had spiral flowers on the hem, printed bodices worked well with white embroidered skirts, cool summer sheath dresses, red halters with swirling skirts and tonal hem embroidery, lilac and black checked cool dresses, belted printed layered frocks were fresh and wholesome in appearance.

For the 70s group it was the maxi dress that worked well in cotton in shades of yellow, pink and blue with block prints and embroidery for the "boho chic" look. Ideal for evenings by the Riviera or on a holiday by the sea, the look revolved around long tubes and floating maxis with smocked sides, halter necklines, gathered skirts, layered ribbed and printed in white or pastels.
Cotton shift dresses looked great with a touch of embroidery on the bodice, while mul and cotton were ideal for a variety of blouses, minis, maxis and cute shorts. Will power tiered maxis in peach, strappy bodices in organic cotton, flowing kimono sleeves for bell skirts, printed tiered maxis, corset tops for minis and a stunning silver multi gota borders lemon maxi were eye-catchers.

The whites came in the end for the show with a long elegant gown with lace insets floating down the ramp in the finale.

It was a no fuss line for the coming season which will once again be a hot seller for Anita Dongre's Grassroot label.

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Tarun Tahiliani (TT) showcased a beautifully scripted organic collection in its purity and elegance for the Wills Lifestyle Grand Finale Spring Summer 2011.

The stage was set with two larger than life trees sculptures placed at the entry of the ramp with a smoke screen embedded to give the feel of models walking in and out of Eternity. Visuals of growing foliage were project on the trees. The mood was organic and the power and beauty of Indian textile and embroidery craft was mesmerizing. Beige and Ecru further enhanced the purity of craftsmanship.

Textured fabrics and day time silhouettes stormed the ramp, as 60 ensembles including the one worn by actress …Shilpa Shetty, show stopper of the day made crisp entries.

Saris, dresses and goddess caftans draped the bodies with natural grace and sensuality.

The 'mulkha' collection of Kutchi kediyus and vests coordinated with saris, dhoti skirts and salwars illustrated the inherent elegance of Indian costumes. Mulkha is a beautiful fabric, a perfect blend of mulmul and khadi with grainy texture and soft feel.

Tone on tone thread embroideries replacing the bling metallics and crystals from Tarun's collection was a significant departure from tradition.

For men, fit to size kurta and gilets were teamed with churidar trousers and jodhpurs.

The menswear coordinates were really nice and elegant.

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