“The global crisis of confidence in governmental, financial, and other institutions will drive luxury consumers to demand that luxury brands serve not just them but society as a whole. They will require luxury brands to be ethical with all constituents, charitable in ways that make a difference to their beneficiaries, and eco friendly in ways that can be documented."
-Excerpt from report by New York-based Luxury Institute
“Luxury is sometimes about absence, detail and discretion."
- Philippe Benacin, chief executive officer of Inter Parfums SA
A mere century and a quarter do not amount to much in the life of a monument, but France’s iconic Eiffel Tower is celebrating its 120 years in existence with pomp and fervor. Eiffel Tower had first opened to the public on May 15, 1889 and to commemorate that day, a series of events have been organized by the Mayor of Paris and the operating company, Société d’Exploitation de la Eiffel. One such is the exhibition, “Tales of the Eiffel Tower”, has been on from May 15th- December 31st, 2009, on the first floor and stairs of the Tower. In the Gustave Eiffel Room located on the first floor, a exhibition representing the Josette Rispal collection, “Rispal, a Collector’s Passion”, is being held from July 20th – August 23rd. On show will be historic objects, engravings and such items connected with the Eiffel Tower and the Universal Expositions (1889 et 1900) collected by Josette’s father Antonin Rispal who was an art collector. The Tower shops and Paris airports are selling the 52-page magazine specially published for the occasion. The entrance tickets too are sporting a new look, so save them if you go visiting this year.
Paris Men’s Fashion Week bids adieu to suit n tie
It was evident on the runways at the Paris Men’s Fashion Week that the French, right from Yves Saint Laurent to Smalto, are showing the way to freeing men from the shackles of stiff suits and the silly neckties. Guys can look forward to mix n match, layering and more color in their attire, accessorized with trendy scarves, gloves and glasses. Those labels not willing to let go of the tie yet were obviously the manufacturers like Hermes and Lanvin. Didier Grumbach, President of the Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt à Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode (also known as the Chambre Syndicale) was quoted to have said, "The suit is no longer an outfit…Men's clothes now are as inventive as those for women..More and more men are ready to take risks, there are plenty of things available other than the suit." Jean-Jacques Picart, consultant for LVMH luxury group said, "I think this season is a turning-point". So look out for the androgynous male in short and sleeveless jackets, waistcoats, low-slung pants, Bermudas,even harem trousers, layered T-shirts or tunics. Dior's Belgian designer, Kris Van Assche, explained that men too need to be "more comfortable, soft and modern for today's use."
Most expensive gem studded bridal gown in Vietnam
Huy Vo, the young Vietnamese fashion designer is making news for having created a bridal gown made of while silk and satin, studded with 222 diamonds, 100 red rubies, including an intricate flower. The entire endeavor, which was commissioned by Vietnam’s DOJI Gold & Gems Group, took all of 40 days, amounting to a total of 320 hours. The gown has been unimaginatively christened as ‘Bach ngoc xiem y’ in Vietnamese, meaning ‘Gown with hundreds of gemstones’, and carries a price tag of VND 2 billion($125,000). The veracity of the claim has been authenticated by the Vietnam Record Book Centre, which has given it a certificate that it is indeed the most expensive gown.
Master Blender and Malt Master collects Lifetime Achievement Award
David Stewart, the Master Blender and Malt Master in Scotch Whisky with William Grant & Sons, became the star of the whisky industry as he collected a Lifetime Achievement Award The Whisky Magazine Icons of Whisky Awards for his contributions and accomplishments throughout a distinguished career. He has been with William Grant & Sons for 46 years and winning each of the House’s single malts and blends multiple awards and the Distiller of Year Award to William Grant & Sons, three times running. His most significant achievements, besides many others, are development of The Balvenie DoubleWood 12 Year Old - the first single malt to be finished in different woods and Glenfiddich 15 Year Old, the first single malt created using Solera maturation system. How else would a man of his caliber celebrate his 45th anniversary, but by quietly creating his own interpretation of his signature single malt - The Balvenie Signature, Aged 12 Years.
French Police crack case of Harry Winston Heist
Nearly seven months after the $118mil heist from the Harry Winston showroom on Avenue Montaigne near the Champs-Elysees, the French police have made some headway and arrested 25 suspects besides weapons and €250,000 in cash. The crime gang, The Pink Panthers, is not involved in the crime; instead it is a new group of people ranging from age 22 to 67 years. Working on a tip off on sale of the loot to foreigners led the police to conduct raids. The case of the theft of €6 mil worth of jewels from Chopard yet remains unresolved.
Feni is Goa’s very own drink – its official now
Goan Feni has now been declared a regional specialty having earned a Geographical Indication (GI) Certificate, the first ever in India for an alcoholic beverage. This now puts it in the same league as Scotland’s Scotch Whiskey, Mexico’s Tequila, Darjeeling Tea, Mysore Sandalwood etc. Goan Cashew Feni is a class apart and superior to its African counterpart because of Goa’s unique weather and production process. Their palm feni is as good but for some reasons, it has not yet been awarded the GI Certification.
Armani to design Luxury Apartments in Rome
Giorgion Armani, through his home division is lending his touch to a block of historical buildings being turned into luxury serviced apartments, the prestigious endeavour being called Cavour220 Project. Located on Via Cavour leading up to the Coliseum in Rome, the six-building property was previously a 19th century convent, where excavations have revealed a cache of antiques. All of the 63 odd apartments occupying nearly 129,200 sqft, will not only be fitted out with bespoke Armani touches but will also have such luxuries as a personal concierge service 24x7 so as the residents don’t have to worry about any of those mundane chores as plumbing, maintenance, travel bookings, babysitting, dinner reservations etc. Considering the costs start at €1,000,000 it is not much to ask for afterall.
Tata opens first Jaguar Land Rover flagship in Mumbai
Finally the first of the Jaguar Land Rover showrooms is opening in Mumbai. Ever since Tata acquired the prestigious and beautiful automobile brand from Ford for $2.3bil last year, we have been waiting for their official sale points to start operating in India. Ratan N Tata, Chairman of Tata Sons and Tata Motors inaugurated the flagship showroom facility at the world class Ceejay House in Worli, where a dedicated showroom for each, Jaguar and Land Rover vehicles will display the wide range on offer. The new range of the premium models available in India will be Jaguar XF, XFR and XKR and Land Rover Discovery 3, Range Rover Sport and Range Rover. Both, Tata Motors and Jaguar have a reputation to live up to and the new venture aims to set a benchmark in luxury car sales in India.
Palm Fronds showing frayed ends
The man made Palm Islands of Dubai, allegedly the ‘Eighth Wonder of the World’, are now making news of the not-so-nice kind. The wind, it would seem, has gone out of their sails as the Dubai Emirates, touted as the world’s richest royals, are now in debt for $80bil, what with the real estate values having plunged and construction at a stand still. Dubai actually had to seek a helping hand from the emirate of Abu Dhabi in February this year. Nearly 4000 of the new celebrity owners of the famous properties, the ‘Palm Pioneers’, are complaining loudly about being mislead. The multi million dollar villas jammed together with no lush tropical greenery was not like what was shown in the brochure. Complaints are also about the access to central air-conditioning not being included in the initial cost, considering that Dubai hits 45C. Having to pay £800 air conditioning bills, is wearing out even the most ardent one of them.
Usquebaugh – Water of Life
The Irish, the Scots and the ancient Romans called it the water of life. In current times everyone calls it whisky; or whiskey if from Ireland or USA. The passage of usque baugh or uisge beatha or aqua vitae, over the years has culminated in the distillation of the finest brew, a single malt scotch - that which is distilled by a single distillery in a pot still in Scotland and matured in old oak casks for atleast more than three years, carefully egged on by malt masters before being bottled.
If you have just entered the single malt club, it is time to know a few rules in order to truly appreciate the brew before imbibing it. A Scotch is much like wine, distinct across distilleries. A single malt has an array of fragrances which have to be ‘nosed’. So bid adieu to the traditional tumbler with wide rims and thick bottom since it is not conducive to any such activity and allows the fragrance to escape. Ideal are Cognac glasses that trap the aroma or tulip shaped glasses with a lid, which have narrow rims much like the nosing copita used in whisky labs in Scotland. Glencairn Crystal Ltd of Scotland is manufacturing just the right kind. Make sure the glass is not colored. Colorless is best to view the color. It tells about the type of maturing casks that have been used in ageing the whisky.
Another usual tendency is to pour that whisky on the rocks. If it’s single malt, forget the ice. It kills the subtle aromas and anaesthetizes the papilla. Pour about a ‘dram’, that is about one to two ounces into a glass, swirl it to aerate the spirit and raise it to the nose. The connoisseur can tell the age of whisky and the nature of the cask used for maturation by swirling the glass and observing the traces that are created due to the viscosity of the liquid. While it is almost sinful to drown the spirit in water, a few drops of mineral or filtered water at room temperature really works well towards releasing the deep secrets and opening up of the whisky. Some might use more or not at all. Most preferred is about 20% to bring out the best ‘nose’. How one enjoys a drink is anyone’s personal business, but the use of sodas in good single malt is deserving of capital punishment.
After having performed all the desired rituals of pouring, swirling and sniffing, it is now time to find out about the length of ‘finish’. That is to take a sip and roll the golden brew in the mouth from side to side to allow for the taste buds to pick up the bouqett of flavors. The time the taste of the whisky stays in the mouth is the legnth of the ‘finish’ and is indicative of the age of the whisky. A single malt is never to be gulped down in shots. Relish it, savor it, contemplate it – cant rush something like this.
Jewels of unimaginable beauty, priceless gems, legendry diamonds from his own personal mines , barrels full of pearls, gold and silver, dozens of palaces stuffed with rare artifacts from around the world, thousands of servants…This is not an exagerated account in a fairy tale but a subdued description of the legendry wealth of the descendants of Nizam-ul-Mulk Asaf Jah I. Posterity gives gentle hues to the treacherous course of history and although for thirteen years his three sons came to the throne one by one, neither was officially recognised as the ruler. Unrecorded stories talk about Asaf Jah I having met a sadhu on one of his hunting trips and was offered leavend bread with a condition that the number of such breads that he would consume would be the number of generations of Asaf Jahs to rule the Deccan. Asaf Jah I was anointed ruler in 1724 and for 224 years seven generations of Asif Jahs ruled the state of Hyderabd until 1948 when it was annexed to the Indian Union.
The Nizams were the strongest of the rulers of the Deccan and in their territory was situated the famous diamond fields of the Golconda mines, including the Kollur mine located on the Krishna River which yielded the finest diamonds. The famous Darya-e-Nur rare pink diamond that is part of the Iranian Crown jewels and the more famous Kohinoor which adorns the crown of the English royalty are two such pricelss beauties from these mines. Perhaps that is what made the Nizams such connoisseurs of jewelry and gems. Mir Mahboob Ali Khan and Mir Osman Ali Khan - Asaf Jah VI and VII contributed the most to build up a priceless jewelry collection that showcases a fine blend of Mughal, Deccan and European styles. After the amalgamation of Hyderabad State, the question of safeguarding the fabulous wealth loomed before Mir Osman Ali Khan and he set up the ‘H.E.H. The Nizam’s Jewelry Trust’ in 1951, the only one of its kind by a ruler. In 1952 he created another supplementary jewelry trust after parting with gifts to his grandsons. The treasure was deposited in vaults in Hong Kong Bank. In 1972 the Hyderabad Nizam’s jewels were offered for sale to the Government of India for Rs 218 crore ($70million). After much deliberations and prolonged court cases, in an effort to not lose the national heritage, in 1995 the Government acquired
the entire collection along with the Jacob diamond and the collection was moved to the vaults of the Reserve Bank of India. The collection had been evaluated by Sotheby’s at $162million and Christie’s at $135million, both said to have been below par. In 2001, the national museum in New Delhi held the very first showing of the legendry jewels of the Nizam. The fabulous beauty of the collection took away the collective breath of the masses. On display were 22 partially uncut and unmounted emeralds weighing nearly 413.50 carats, amulets, a belt with 245 white and yellow diamonds, a ring with 12 old-cut diamonds and innumerable rings, buttons, brooches, diamond-studded images of camels and gold ingots. Among the sarpenchs (turban ornaments) studded with brilliant Golconda diamonds in gold along with emerald beads and cabochon rubies, was a special ‘Bachkana sarpench’, that was specially made for young Mahboob Ali, the sixth Nizam, when he ascended the throne. Also on display was the legendry Jacob diamond.
As it is with large and priceless gems and their owners, many an interesting legends abound about the diamonds possessed by the Nizams. The famous Jacob Diamond was earlier known as the ‘Imperial’ or ‘Great White’ and is the seventh largest in the world at 503.25 carats, mined in South Africa. But it is also rumored that it is actually a resurrection of the ‘Victoria’ Diamond which has gone missing and and was close in similarity to the Jacob. Mir Mahboob Ali Khan, sixth Nizam is said to have bought the ‘Victoria’ and thereafter all records about its existence have vanished. Instead when the jewelry collection was put up for sale, the Jacob, sporting same weight and cut was recorded. Another legend says that the Jacob got its name from Alexander Malcom Jacob, an Armenian Jew who arrived in Simla in 1871 posing as a gem trader and possessing of magical powers. He set up a deal with the sixth Nizam by showing him the replica of one ‘Imperial’ diamond for Rs46 lakhs, took Rs 23 lakhs as deposit, leaving the balance payment subject to the Nizam liking the original. Nizam rejected the stone and demanded the refund of deposit which never came. A court case was filed which left Jacob in penury. Later, in an out of court settlement, with only the Nizam’s valet as witness, Jacob handed the diamond to the ruler of Hyderabad, who wrapped it in an ink stained cloth and tossed it in a drawer. The seventh Nizam found it in the shoe of his predecessor and used it as a paper weight. Today it sits in the museum or the RBI vault. Another mysterious diamond unearthed from the Golconda mines was the ‘Nizam diamond’ valued at Rs100 crore in the international market. Historical records of Golconda Fort identified it as mined in 1830 on the banks of the Krishna River in Kolluru. The diamond was three times the size of the Kohinoor which was also found on the same location. Weighing 277 carats and possessing the finest water, color and clarity of a true Golconda diamond, it was ranked as fifth biggest diamond in the world. Reportedly in 1835 the trusted minister of the fourth Nizam Nasir-ud-Daula gave it to his king. In 1891, it is said to have been examined by a reporter form San Francisco Chronicle who evaluated it at £800,000 and described its size as almost that of a champagne glass. It was kept in the Nizam’s treasury but its whereabouts are not known today. His descendants stopped digging up old havelis in search of the diamond only two decades ago. Recently the government has decided to defreeze the Rs 250 crore Nizam fund lying in London's National Westminster's Bank, and it is hoped the ‘Nizam’ might surface there. City historian Muhammad Safiullah is sure that the diamond is with some family member since a gem of that caliber can not be sold anywhere without the whole world knowing about it.
Mir Osman Ali Khan Asaf Jahi VII, one of the richest in the world, was more famous for his frugal ways. He often dressed in tattered old clothes and wouldn’t part with an extra buck for his comforts. One such story is that one winter night he instructed his ADC to procure a blanket not costing more than Rs 25. On not finding anything cheaper than Rs35, the wealthy Nizam decided to carry on with the old one. But he was generous about contributing to a cause irrespective of caste or creed. He instantly donated Rs 1 lakh to the Benaras Hindu University at the request of the Maharaja of Bikaner. He donated trunks full of gold coins to the National Defence Fund of India and instructed the officer sternly, "I am donating the coins not the trunk. See that they are returned." The last of the Asaf Jahis, Mir Osman Ali Khan, seventh Nizam-ul-Mulk passed away in 1967.
Van Cleef & Arpels’ fragrant Collection Extraordinare
Taking its perfume offering to another level altogether, Van Cleef & Arpels is set to launch its most exclusive scent line, ‘Collection Extraordinare’, created in co-operation with different perfumers and comprising six different fragrances packaged minimally in identical flacons made of glass designed by Carret Basset. There are no plans for an advertising campaign for the Extraordinaire fragrances, which will be available in a limited 1000 doors only worldwide, inclusive of Van Cleef’s 50 shops. Paying a homage to the garden and nature, the six compositions are called – Gardénia Pétale (Gardenia Petal) by Symrise’s Nathalie Feisthauer, Vanille (Vanilla Orchid) by Symrise’s Randa Hammami, Lys Carmin (Carmine Lily), by Givaudan’s Nathalie Cetto, Muguet Blanc (White Lily of the Valley) by Givaudan’s Antoine Maisondieu, Bois d’Iris (or Iris Wood) by Symrise’s Emilie Coppermann, In all likelihood another perfume will be added to the line and all six will sold as a limited edition package.
The smallest super luxury car - Aston Martin Cygnet
Aston Martin’s first super luxury, three door hatchback, super mini, priced at £20,000 ($32,000) and named Aston Martin Cygnet is due out by end of this year. That it will resemble Toyota’s iQ model is no co-incidence since Aston Martin is in a tie-up with Toyota, wherein their existing iQs without makeup will be shipped to Aston’s HQ. Here the car will acquire all the standard Aston features like all-leather interior, different wheels and tyres, the front wide-mouth grille, bonnet air-vents and DBS rear lights plus the usual winged badge of Aston Martin. Standard Toyota iQ parts and styling will all still be there. The hybrid will first be on offer to the existing owners of Aston Martins and will later be made available for all. Now will James Bond drive this?
The Haute Couture Week in Paris is the perfect setting to match the exotic bauble to the elegant attire. The jewelry houses have an amazing spread for the next season. Here are a few stunners
Boucheron’s replication of the Julia set fractals in a diamond and saphire necklace absolutely stole the show. This maths inspiration has worked well for Marc Newson who used 2,000 paved stones and nearly 1,500 hours of craftsperson’s time using rapid-prototyping technology and a minimal three-prong setting, to make this masterpiece.
Chanel Jewelry showcased its ‘Lumière’ collection against a backdrop of replica of the Place Vendôme, where 150,000 crystal Lego pieces were specially created to replicate the central column. The jewelry was modern, wearable and light and reflected one of Coco Channels first designs; all replete with bows, ribbons et al.
Van Cleef & Arpels displayed a very retro-chic collection that paid homage to the great outdoors of America’s West Coast.
Cartier’s jewelry collection carried the theme ‘Secrets et Merveilles’ (Secrets and Wonders) and was depicted across four sections each depicting peacock, snakes, diamonds and pearls.
Bulgari presented its new Serpenti Collection made up of links of gold, pave diamonds, onyx and mother of pearl. The snake inspired collection comprised watches, bracelets and rings, all carrying the snake motif. The collection will be available only from October.
A sensitive heart, an anguished soul, a fair supply of trauma and painful moments tinged with frustration and hardships and all this topped with an aversion to seek publicity or create hype. While this aptly describes many a creative geniuses over the centuries, it also is the fitting description of Tyeb Mehta, an iconic painter and a legend in his life time, who passed away recently at his residence in Mumbai.
He lived many paradoxes in his 83 plus years. To the end he stayed close to his paints and canvases and neither frail health nor crippling age could make him hang up his brushes. Still, he was not a prolific painter. Born in Gujrat in 1925 he worked towards becoming a film editor and headed for JJ School of Art for studying art direction. With a teacher like Palsekar and contemporaries like Syed Haider Raza, Ram Kumar, Gaitonde,
Ara and M.F.Hussain, how could painting not happen to this sensitive young man? Away from the freshly torn Pakistan, he witnessed one brutal assault on a young man and that was enough to invoke a sense of horror so deep that it kept playing out on his canvases. He admitted that his ‘The Trussed Bull’ and ‘Fallen Figures’ were metaphors to the partition violence, although he painted the former after he shot footage for his documentary at a Bandra abattoir. The vision of a broken and bleeding beast reminded him of the slaughtered youth. He did get to make a short film, ‘Koodal’ that won him the Filmfare Critics’ award and he wrote the script on Mahasweta Devi’s novel, ‘Hazaar Chaurasi ki Maa’.
He was quiet and self effacing, but that did not keep him from winning a Rockefeller Fellowship in 1968 that took him to New York, and later to Santiniketan in West Bengal as artist in residence. The prestigious Kalidas Samman was conferred on him in 1988 by the Government of Madhya Pradesh. For a long time he lived in Nizamuddin in Delhi, reading and painting, supported by his wife who held a job. He said in an interview, “I have always searched for that balance of opposite forces compelling to uphold values of lightness and create a harmony with its own gravity.”
Even as Tyeb floundered, he came up with innovations that changed the course of his works. In 1969 was one such moment when the ‘cleave’ happened on his canvas. His diagonal slash changed the perspectives of his paintings. He confessed, “I did not want to create something disturbing but when I drew that diagonal it was done with precision and determination.” In 2002 international recognition rewarded him with the sale of his triptych, ‘Celebration’ at Christie’s for Rs1.5cr, a first for an Indian painter ever. In 2005, Mahishasura sold for $1.5mil again at a Christie’s auction, the purchase price exceeding pre-sale estimates of $800,000. At the Osian’s Auction held in Mumbai, his oil on canvas painitng ‘Gesture’ sold for Rs31mil. Last year saw a book on him titled ‘Tyeb Mehta - Ideas, Images, Exchanges' released at ITC Maurya Sheraton in New Delhi. He struggled failing health to paint the last diptych.
‘I am a loner and a recluse’, he said but try as he might, fame and wealth did find the path to his door. On 2nd July, 2009 he left his ailing body and bid a final adieu. His funeral was held at the Bohra Kabrastan.