Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, Asia’s biggest business event for the fashion industry, is back again with the prêt collections for the Autmn/Winter 2011-2012 season. The event is being held at the Hall No. 18, India Trade Promotion Organization (ITPO), Pragati Maidan, New Delhi from April 6-10, 2011. We at RVG NewsVision bring you daily coverage of selected shows with detailed reviews specially written for us by Asha Baxi, senior faculty NIFT and Neelima Mishra Agrawal of NewsVision.
Out this season – unisex look, grunge, stoles and scarves
Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar is one of India’s foremost designers, whose unique style reflects the ancient traditions of Indian craftsmanship in a contemporary vocabulary. With a background in art history and museology, she has a keen understanding of ancient designs and the innovative use of traditional crafts. The first woman to introduce the ‘boutique’ culture in India under the brand name ‘Ritu’, she launched her new sub brand, ‘LABEL’ in 2002, which is a modern offering that is both fashionable and affordable. Her son Amrish Kumar is now the creative director of the Brand. He has a MBA from UCLA and an degree in economics from Bristol University UK. He has been with the brand since 2002
Ritu Kumar one of the most distinctive Indian designer is known for her finely tailored pieces that involve genuine workmanship. However the A/W 2011 collection from the newly launched Ritu Kumar Label, inspired by adventure and mystery seemed short of fresh ideas. The assorted styles appeared to have been drawn from the existing repertoire of the fashion house.
The collection was a patchwork of ideas, shapes, textures and colours with touches of masculine trimmings and structure on one hand and wispy feminine shapes with a touch of folkloric appeal on the other.
Flowy dresses in signature print and embroideries, layered ensembles with vintage appeal. straight kurtis, kurtas, jacket were teamed with long and short skirts with controlled volumes, classic bottoms with soft cowls and drapes, pyjamas and trousers. Layering of tops, jacket and gilets in embroidered and printed diaphanous fabrics conjured an image of bygone era.
Taking forward Indian heritage with subtle jacquards in traditional and modern designs, block prints, engineered wovens, the contemporary element was introduced by using soft wool blends, breezy silk crepes and jersey. The collection also showcased some rare pieces from a revival project in Kanjivaram. Other noticeable textiles seen were hand woven silks from Bengal.
The colour palette gravitated towards blacks, burgundies, rusts and khaki browns.
SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS INNOVATIONS EVOKE NATURAL BEAUTY AND PERSONAL FULFILLMENT
Mirroring society’s current concerns, Spring/Summer 2012’s trends speak of a collective quest for happiness, simplicity and a closer connection with nature. This season, SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS interpret these yearnings in sparkling crystal innovations with a romantic aesthetic: organic shapes that echo the planet’s power and beauty, pared-down, natural materials, and a warm palette of soothing earth tones provide inspiration and delight to designers everywhere.
SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS dazzle with designer flair
India’s most celebrated design talent, Manish Arora, has once again worked his magic. In partnership with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS, he has conjured up a witty, touching and deeply romantic story on the theme of love. Love Story of the Heart is a collection of five heart shapes in crystal; each one tracks a different stage of love, going by the whimsical names of Crazy 4 U Heart, Devoted 2 U Heart, Miss U Heart, Forever 1 Heart and Truly In Love Heart. Available in one color and five effects, including the exclusive and subtle Crystal Astral Pink, they conjure warm Indian spices and rich, floating saris.
German designer, Michael Michalsky, whose label is famous for its classic style combined with edgy attitude, has collaborated with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS to produce nine sparkling transfers. Designs By Michalsky draw on the theme of nature in peril, featuring endangered species, among them the Atlantic puffin, eagle and lynx.
New colors and effects inspired by the natural world
A rainbow of romantic softness provides a counterpoint to strong and earthy metallics. Design creativity is set to soar this season with the newest additions to the SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS color spectrum.
Chrysolite Opal
Cool and tranquil, the palest green of soft, new leaves, Chrysolite Opal lends serenity to quiet neutrals and balances intense colors, as well as adding opalescence to fashion-forward looks. Designers will delight in its versatility and the harmonizing effect it brings to the entire palette.
Rajesh Pratap Singh belongs to Rajasthan. Subsequent to his graduation from NIFT Delhi he worked in the Fashion Industry for two years in India and Italy before introducing his own line of men’s and women’s clothing in 1997. Rajesh is closely associated with Indian fabric mills and has had developmental and research based in India. Textile experimentation spans both the very high tech as well as the low tech. He is working closely with backward and forward integration as well as technical improvements in Khadi. He is also working with a cooperative society for developing India’s finest Cashmere. Rajesh is a recipient of several awards in recognition of his design and creativity. He received the Kingfisher Designer of the Year Award both in 2001 and 2005. He also received the Best Menswear Designer award at the Fashion Awards held in 1996. Elle (May 2007) had named him “Designer of the Year” after the India Fashion Week.
Rajesh Pratap’s Architectural Romance brought cheer to an otherwise tepid first two days of the fashion week. Silver trees laden with bunches of little replicas of the Manza automobile, even shedding a few on the front row audiences, were a reminder of this show’s sponsors.
The show revved up the excitement as Rajesh Pratap pays a floral tribute to the winter. Large pixilated flowers may have been seen in previous seasons, but here they were interpreted afresh keeping it all very edgy and modern. Particularly exciting were the embellishments with leather sequins and appliqué to create the 3D pixilated effect. Spike embroidery and felt appliqué on an anti fit jacket, sequin pollen embroidery on a black jumpsuit, biker jacket with felt mosaic embroidery, a white satin dress with roses made of black and orange felt broken digital raindrop embroidery – delightful all. Very western silhouettes were about anti fit and bubble shapes, yet structured. Woven aluminum was an exciting novelty. Handloom weaves, ikat, satin, silks, velvet, leather for dresses and pants and embellishments and trims.
Color palette comprised the deep shades of black, navy, royal blue, grey but pepped up with orange appliqués or a flaming orange in a lining, grey with orange, never letting a somber dull winter evening mood flounder without color. Long coats in rich aubergine silk velvet worn over black trousers, another navy coloured with black lining or the royal blue with a flame orange lining completed the preparations for a very fashionable autumn winter season.
James Ferreira entered the women’s fashion business nearly four decades ago, an unusual profession for a man at that time. He undertook a course in textile designing at the JJ School of Art in Bombay. Along with that Ferreira did a tailoring course at Sheroo Cooper’s Academy of tailoring. With Orkay Mills he was one of the team of international designers who created garments for export to Europe and London. Then it was creative Touch, another boutique followed by Indian Textiles at Taj Mahal Hotel, Bombay. Shalimar and Yasmeen Exports gave Ferreira a taste of the export market again. Baba Saab, the high fashion men’s boutique that creates garments for men like Amitabh Bachchan was his next stop. A chance introduction with top British designer, Zandra Rhodes, he sought a job with her and worked with her for four months. His present assignments are with Eternia for a more medium-priced ready-to-wear line and as creative head for Kala Niketan, the sari house.
James Ferreira - enthralled the audience with his poetic presentation of beauty, grace, and elegance. Each ensemble was a perfect combination of fashion, art and commercial viability.
Inspired by the elegance of the seamless sari drapes he presented an extensive range of exquisite evening dresses and gowns. Adding structure to his signature drapes James Ferreira pleated and tucked Italian silks for dresses in modern silhouettes with boxy A-line shapes effortlessly caressing body contours with minimum seams and trims. Asymmetric cowls and cuts, handkerchief hems, bateau necklines and cut away sleeves featured in experimental mode.
Chic outer wear coats in heavy wool, tucked and draped into cocoon silhouettes with special emphasis on back cowls, exaggerated collars , built up neck lines and large sleeves added 50’s glamour of post WW II.
Understated tortoise shell and fur prints made occasional appearance to otherwise clean solid winter colour palette of Black with forest shades of moss green, grey, teal, golden yellow, brown and burnt sienna. Heavy wool, fur, leather and fluid silks were the main fabrics.
The show was presented by Verytas Foundation an NGO formed by Stefano Pilati, creative Director Yves Saint Laurent and Fillipo Binaghi, Managing Director Lorma SRL, an ItalinnComo based silk weaving company to reduce poverty through charity in India.
10% of the profit from the collection will be donated to the foundation for educating children in Andhra Pradesh and Mumbai.
Launched in 1997, Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna are buddies who design for their label Cue. They have made their mark in prêt western wear for men and women. They specialize in contemporary designs with great emphasis on silhouettes and detailing. A true au courant fashion brand, the Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna umbrella includes the prêt labels H2O and CUE, where H2O is primarily ready to wear menswear and CUE both ready to wear and customized women’s wear. Apart from the well acclaimed hi-fashion garments, CUE also specialize in corporate dressing and custom made uniforms.
The label Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna lived up to the expectations with their collection themed ‘Amazement’ for the autumn/winter 2011-12 season. The backdrop of the sound track mixed and compiled by the famous and talented Madhav Shorey of Jalebi Cartel fame, set the right mood as the show opened with the sculpted thigh high dress in mushroom grey. And so it went, a modern western silhouette across dresses with varying hemlines that moved from thigh high to below the knees, ankle length, jacket dress, shrugs, sheer blouses over contrast linings, skirts, flared pants, cropped pant, fold up trousers – a delightful line up.
The colour palette of rust, glazed ginger, Moroccan blue, raw and burnt sienna, camel, mushroom grey and midnight blue were punctuated with the strength of black. Colour blocking was imaginatively used to perfect effect. Sheer tulle tops with herringbone appliqué worn over contrast inners were very feminine and sensuous. Particularly striking was the herringbone patterned tulle dress having tulle wrapped metallic rings tucked on to it. Materials used were sheers, glazed textiles, laser cut felts, mesh and thick knits. The fringe appeared as embellishment on a dress in solid red hues. The herringbone pattern as appliqué or in the weave of trousers, sequins, fringe necklace, laser cut knits, wool-perforation, stripes, cables, color blocked panels, overlaps and so on.
It was a hip line, feminine and sensuous, yet androgynous in parts, very neat. The designers claimed it to be the metamorphosis of the many shades of the European streets from their imagination.
Namrata, a NIFT graduate, launched her clothing line in India in 1996 under the "Namrata Joshipura" label. In 1999, Namrata represented India and won second prize at the Asia Pacific Young Designer's Show, held during Hong Kong Fashion Week. The following year, she was the first Indian designer to be selected to participate in the "World Young Designers' Award Ceremony" at the London Fashion Week and she later presented her collection at the 'Indian Show" in Sao Paolo, Brazil. Namrata has also designed the costumes for the award winning Indo-German film "Dance of the Wind" which captured prizes at both the London and Nantes Film Festivals.
Namrata Joshipura’s - trade mark pristine cuts and fits set the benchmark for cocktail and club wear styles for Autumn Winter 2011-12. Sleek and chic contemporary silhouettes in no nonsense mood evoked a neo-gothic mood inspired by her love for music in particular ‘Radio Head’ the alternative music band . One also experienced clever use of layers in visual, aural and sensorial mystique.
Core shapes re-appeared in wide leg pants, leather hot pants, boxy leather jacket, metallic jumpers, charcoal sequin draped jackets, cuboid grey skirt, cashmere cape, printed dresses and the iconic ‘little black dress’ and gowns to entice the modern confident women of today. Clean necklines and armholes added measured sharpness to the overall look.
Controlled exploration of treatments and embellishments with 3D felt appliques, linear disc-like sequins, wispy lace godets, and rectangular felt pailletes added fresh allure to the classic evening styles. Also new fabrics like embossed felt, textured leather, metal sheeting and press pleated wool and silk were crisp and light.
The winter palette was dark with shots of colours. Black, grey and charcoal formed the base with accents of teal and blood orange.
Overall, a discreet presentation of smart sexy outfits. A perfect ‘noir wardrobe solution’!.
