The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) brings again, the third edition of the Van Heusen India Mens Week (VHIMW), which is being held at The Grand, Vasant Kunj, from September 2nd to 4th, 2011. The event has an impressive lineup of established and seasoned mens wear designers along with young upcoming talent. NewsVision, as always, brings you detailed reviews of the shows, which are being covered by Ambika Magotra, Associate Professor Fashion at the Pearl Academy of Fashion.
Skinny ,Cropped and Casual pants with upturned hem
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Creative pockets on creative vests with a cool n young travelers look
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Crushed look
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Contemporized Indian Tie Dye
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Inside out Seam finishes on jacket as design detailing
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Creative application of Ombre’
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Distressed texturing
Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna are buddies who design for their label Cue. Have made their mark in pre^t wear designs for men and women. They specialize in contemporary designs with great emphasis on silhouettes and detailing. They are greatly influenced by modern contemporary art. They have been awarded best Pre^t collection and best Menswear Collection on numerous occasions. Their Collections illustrate an aesthetic that is innovative yet understated, put together with an apparent effortless finesse.
This season most of the fashion designers have decided to make men’s clothing well fitting, smart and also fun. As a result VHIFW’11 is offering a large variety to Indian men. The design trend seems to minimize the difference between casual and work wear. Are the ranges going to see a new flirtatious era for men? Only time will tell but this season will definitely make men think of creating fashion statements.
Rohit and Rahul’s impeccable designs celebrated the fashion up-gradation of Indian men and of one who is ready to express himself through fashion. The duo showed a new age cuts and constructions re-defining the dandy male.
Their presentation seamlessly merged elegance and macho-ism with retro and funky. Neutral color tones mixed with a bright colour palette made each item standout on its own effortlessly.
New age cuts and construction in their work define the dandy male with multitude of textures cleverly blended to form structures. Their bomber jacket emerged as a new icon piece. It came in a variety of shades of navy blue, grey, and graphical black and white.
The fresh look focused attention on geometric and chromatic adaptation which were in perfectly balanced forms. All models dressed together looked as if marching together to gentleman’s club.
SWAROVSKI is delighted to present the second issue of its bi-annual publication, Salt. With sumptuous photography, leading-edge fashion and inspirational demonstrations of the many extraordinary uses for crystal, Salt celebrates the full spectrum of sparkling design, from lighting, interiors and architecture to fashion, accessories and jewelry.
Throughout Swarovski’s long history, stars of the stage and screen from Marilyn Monroe to Maria Callas have exuded crystal glamour. This issue, a behind-the-scenes look at two film sets continues that tradition. Black Swan’s stylish and gripping take on a ballerina’s pathological perfectionism features six magnificent Trilliane chandeliers and costume masterpieces from Rodarte designers, Laura and Kate Mulleavy, all emblazoned with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS. Burlesque, by contrast, is a louche take on the smouldering burlesque lounge, a mood amplified by Michael Kaplan’s extravagantly spangled, over-the-top corsets and costumes, often made from gold chains interlinked with shimmering SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS.
Among this issue’s star-studded line-up of big-name personalities is real-life burlesque icon, Dita von Teese, who talks about her brand of feminist glamour, complete with stage costumes ablaze with so many crystals that she was once asked if she was “plugged into the wall”. The ever-dynamic Karl Lagerfeld muses on his distinguished couture career and Inca-inspired jewelry for Atelier Swarovski; bright young Ulsterman Jonathan Anderson, reflects on the nuances of incorporating SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS into men’s apparel; and boy wonder of the New York fashion scene, Joseph Altuzarra, sheds light on his penchant for boldly sexy, post-modern urban glamour, and the Bakelite-inspired, pop-feel pieces he has designed for Atelier Swarovski.
In a striking tribute to Swarovski’s long-held tradition of partnering with leading names in the fashion world, Australian photographer Beau Grealy evinces a painterly quality in his portraits of seven distinguished fashion designers....
Rajesh Pratap singh’s lines are well known for their simplicity matched with obsessive attention to detail. NIFT, Delhi, alumnus introduced his own line of men's and women's clothing only in 1997. Recipient of many awards, he has worked towards technical improvements in 'Khadi' and is associated with a cooperative society for developing India's finest Cashmere.
As expected Rajesh surprised again with a brilliantly designed men’s collection ... It almost felt as if the designer has revisited the Roaring 20s in America... or perhaps taken on a Taliban dress code....or even a Matahari or bandit queen...taken together it interpreted many moods!!!
Undoubtedly, here is a designer who leaves an impact and gives a strong direction and has a great understanding of the transformation of men’s fashion over multiple generations.
Rajesh revisited the Roaring 20s of America to create drama on the ramp. The collection was highly influenced by many prominent heroes and figures of the era including athletes. Although it might seem an unusual combination, Rajesh ably put together a mix of sportswear with highly tailored pieces.
The collection had an element of cult especially in connotation with Bin Laden.
Sack pants were paired with impeccably done layered tops. Masculinity came out in each piece with simple bordering and classic, handmade detailing in abundance. With twisted Goth prints, pin stripes, intarsia wool knits and classic checks, Rajesh’s collection experimented with the motif soft constructed blazers, textured safari jackets and washed detailing added a different world charm. Multiple layering done to get a deconstructed look was a key element which held the range theatrically. Shades of ecru, melange, dove gray, blacks and distressed browns looked too hazy with strong styling elements.
The fake golden trinkets uplifted the radical look of models who walked the ramp with the face coverings. However, the non conformist army look gave priority to comfort and ease in the clothing.
The typical crafted jackets had details on shoulder’s to add a more agile, elegant and slender boyish appearance. A collection had creativeness and a lot of variety in lowers like chinos, pleated front in upturned cuff, in low crotched and loose cropped pants.
The show stirred interest and deserved the many rounds of applause and high appreciation that it got for being original yet trendy!
One of the brightest sparks emerging from NIFT a decade back, Ashish Soni has made his mark on the Indian and global ramps. He launched his namesake label in 1991 and his design studio ‘Ikos’ in 1993. The designer has participated in fashion events in places like Oman, Thailand, Hongkong, Singapore, Tokyo, London, New York and Paris. Besides his flagship and select stores across India, he also retails successfully in Dubai though Fasateen. Extreme simplicity, flawless lines, immaculate cuts and a perfect finish define an Ashish Soni creation.
Ashish Soni’s finale of the second day pampered the rich and famous men present in the Main Show Area. The sartorial style of chic European men as inspiration was incredibly well displayed.
Ashish harnessed the light breezy linens to create masculine look that was juxtaposed against stereotypical distressed colors and worn out details as shown in other designers work.
The collection was a playful and bold experimentation of the timeless two piece linen suits. The range varied from classic slim fitted single and double breasted suits. As homage to St. Tropez man’ he inter-mixed a range of crayola pink and khaki linen shorts into his collection. Distinct in the collection were bright and fresh two-toned shirts, the detailing and inbuilt bow ties.
The ace designer used his most important tools of impeccable tailoring of high fashion to soft jackets and fashion hybrid linen suits. The most eye catching was the floral linings given to unstructured solid jackets. Polka dots were charmingly used to recreate 50s romantic look. Floral brogues and bright linen loafers were vividly styled with colour blocking socks to give a boys look at its best.
The brothers Shantanu and Nikhil have successfully synergized their areas of expertise to create a brand synonymous with elegance and sophistication. Shantanu Mehra acquired a MBA degree from the University of Toledo, Ohio, USA while Nikhil Mehra joined the advance course at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles, California. His designing skills won him several prestigious awards and scholarships resulting in a invitation by the Beverly Hills store ‘Georgio’ to design a collection for them. He was the first Indian designer to show in Universal Studio, Hollywood. Shantanu identified the lacuna in the fashion world in India and the duo jointly launched their namesake label in 1999 with a men’s wear line that was high on sophistication and elegance. Their contemporary and silhouette centric designs have a global demand.
The duo displayed effortless style and new found persona of being a global Indian. The Designers picked three traditionally masculine characteristics - freedom, character, discipline at VHIMFW’11
Layering done in stylishly messy way is surely a trend this season, but they have used a purists approach in handling the concept. No element looked out of proportion in fact as a surprise they played with more somber and soft palettes.
The collection was inspired by vintage Indian royalty. The designer duo created a cocktail of culture, advocating a sense of timeless elegance for the modern young man. Skinny lowers well coordinated with bold rich wall morris inspired brocades were for smartly patterned in chic sherwani jackets. Same motif was printed on knitted kurtas. Simple garb in monochrome shade was styled with structured draped stoles, which stood out in the show.
Shantanu & Nikhil always win the show with their skill in balancing tradition (the silhouettes and overall design) with modernity (the execution).
Manoviraj Khosla has made a place for himself as a designer of repute and is better known for his men’s wear collections although he has been designing for the ladies too. His studio, which his namesake , came about in 1990 and designs prêt as well as couture lines. He is the natural choice for corporate houses seeking uniform designs and his list of clients is long and impressive.
One can expect ‘idiosyncratic clothing’ for the free-spirit from Manoviraj Khosla.
The designer has been around for quite some time and his craftsmanship of uncompromising finish this season explored various textures, weaves, colours in softer hues and fabrics that could be easily used to define men’s wear. This collection inspiration came from a man who is safe dresser and loves to have a good time. It is for an urban man who is always on the move with a free spirit.
Manoviraj’s fuss-free collection based on human emotions “doesn’t get swayed with tactile fabrics.” His clothes, thus, in a classic color palette of blacks, whites, blues and browns worked to achieve that with Classic boyish and young checks, striped and printed linens to bright layered silks and well engineered tie dyes to create textures with fabrics and interesting weaves. Though the fabrics were cleverly worked upon with tone on tone texturing, rouched patterns of sharp cuts, jackets designed in intricate embroidery, slim-fit trousers and accessorised with smart footwear. The collection was called ‘Sinnerman’.
Karan Johar, the well known director and producer of several successful and very stylish Hindi films, formalized his apparel designing expertise by joining hands with the established designer Varun Bahl. Varun Bahl has a degree from the National Institute of Fashion Technology in Delhi and is known for his expertise and flair for western clothes. Together the two very talented designers have launched their name sake label which is going places within a year of its launch.
Everyone was definitely waiting for the grand finale’ of VHIMFW. This collection was the duos’ second men’s prêt collection together. They presented a vision of Mediterranean chic.
With flair and style the alluring collection was an expression of an artist, a traveler and a collector. They created an extension of receptive man who would like to relax and stroll on the streets of Florence. The world without baggage, and being open to the ideas thrown by the world with the sensitivity of a child. The linen and wool based collection largely centered on shades of grey, and a heavy play on crushed cool texture. Hand-painted and ombre-dyed pieces garments that evoked a vintage mood.
Embroideries in tonal shades. Distressed bleeched detailing which were achieved keeping Jackson pullock great art pieces as an inspiration, this was intelligently applied on side seams of trousers. These arty lowers were well coordinated with natural fabrics like soft fluid silk jerseys. Summer layering was a prime element.
From matt surfaces to metallic sheen, there was something for everyman. Simple yet clever details like the built up neck, overstitched concealed pockets, cuffs and buttons, inside out done seams finished with Hong Kong bound added a sporty and cool feel to the sartorial elegance.
