The second edition of the Delhi Couture Week, organised by the Fashion Design Council of India is here again to showcase some of the finest works by the top names in the business. Synergy 1, as the official sponsors for this edition, get to have the event named after them. RVG NewsVision brings for its readers, the reviews of the top shows, written for us by fashion expert Asha Baxi, senior faculty NIFT.
Anju Modi has been an integral part of the Indian Fashion Industry from its t inception, having started her label in 1990. Perfectionist and a visionary by nature, Anju Modi has created a style that is synonymous with simple, subtle designs that connect with the traditional Indian handicrafts of yesteryears. In 2006 she was selected for Heyers Fashion Festival in Paris, organized by the Paris fashion week. In the same year, she was also invited to present her collection at the Miami Fashion Week. In 2009, she was requested by the Department of Tourism to show during their international event India Calling at the Hollywood Bowl in Los Angeles. In 2010, she was nominated for the 'Best Indian Designer Award' by Marie Claire. The other fashion design label under of the fashion House of Modis is AM:PM, by her children Ankur and Priyanka Modi.
In India, ‘couture’ has been re-defined or rather identified by bridal wear and wedding wear. The story is larger than life, the tags even bigger. If exquisite cuts, fit and finish, use of luxurious materials, made to order or limited edition in ready to wear is about couture, our bridal wear qualifies. So what is the fuss about?
Elaborate Mughal style angrakhas with draped pants, layered tunics, opulent saris, churidars and exaggerated lehengas marked Anju Modi’s couture collection for 2011.
Diaphanous layers coordinated with metallic blouses and peshwaz (long robe front open), all made out of Varansi brocades, velvets, net and tissues. The fabrics were porous characterized with a loud drop.
Devoid of clutter the silhouettes remained basic and embellished in traditional style with large and narrow borders in velvet, lace and metallic gota. Embroidered motifs drawn from traditional archives added value to plain silks, chiffon and net.
Dupatta drapes decorated with small and large motifs and metallic borders on transparent fabrics completed the look.
Broken whites and ivory, deep maroon, purple gold and silver added majestic feel to the collection.
SWAROVSKI is delighted to present the second issue of its bi-annual publication, Salt. With sumptuous photography, leading-edge fashion and inspirational demonstrations of the many extraordinary uses for crystal, Salt celebrates the full spectrum of sparkling design, from lighting, interiors and architecture to fashion, accessories and jewelry.
Throughout Swarovski’s long history, stars of the stage and screen from Marilyn Monroe to Maria Callas have exuded crystal glamour. This issue, a behind-the-scenes look at two film sets continues that tradition. Black Swan’s stylish and gripping take on a ballerina’s pathological perfectionism features six magnificent Trilliane chandeliers and costume masterpieces from Rodarte designers, Laura and Kate Mulleavy, all emblazoned with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS. Burlesque, by contrast, is a louche take on the smouldering burlesque lounge, a mood amplified by Michael Kaplan’s extravagantly spangled, over-the-top corsets and costumes, often made from gold chains interlinked with shimmering SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS.
Among this issue’s star-studded line-up of big-name personalities is real-life burlesque icon, Dita von Teese, who talks about her brand of feminist glamour, complete with stage costumes ablaze with so many crystals that she was once asked if she was “plugged into the wall”. The ever-dynamic Karl Lagerfeld muses on his distinguished couture career and Inca-inspired jewelry for Atelier Swarovski; bright young Ulsterman Jonathan Anderson, reflects on the nuances of incorporating SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS into men’s apparel; and boy wonder of the New York fashion scene, Joseph Altuzarra, sheds light on his penchant for boldly sexy, post-modern urban glamour, and the Bakelite-inspired, pop-feel pieces he has designed for Atelier Swarovski.
In a striking tribute to Swarovski’s long-held tradition of partnering with leading names in the fashion world, Australian photographer Beau Grealy evinces a painterly quality in his portraits of seven distinguished fashion designers....
Ashima, a NIFT graduate, is also a B.Com degree holder. The other- half of the label, Leena, is a qualified lawyer. The two sisters-in-law have pitted together their talents to take their label places. They specialize in traditional bridal and hand embroidered outfits, with bold use of colours. Their emphasis on quality and detail along with innovative use of fabrics and embroideries, puts them leagues ahead in the game.
Ashima & Leena presented period costumes ostensibly emerging straight out of the paintings of Raja Ravi Verma for their couture collection.
Inspired by ‘adaa’ of Lukhnawi women and the swish of their movements a classical dance performance was arranged before the show.
Models draped in multiple layers of gossamer silk, kinkhab, jamdaani and brocade fabrics sasheyed down the ramp. Each drape was inspired by regional peculiarities from across the country.
Peshwaz worn over ghagras, transparent net dhoti salwar draped over churidars and layers of khadda dupattas wrapped over ensembles were coordinated to recreate the look.
Vintage feel induced deep and muted shades in the wide ranging palette of powdery beiges, pinks, rusty green and peachy rose to bright Indian pink.
Tarnished gold and silver metallic borders and motifs discreetly peppered the dull haze of muted colours and layering.
The brothers Shantanu and Nikhil have successfully synergized their areas of expertise to create a brand synonymous with elegance and sophistication. Shantanu Mehra acquired a MBA degree from the University of Toledo, Ohio, USA while Nikhil Mehra joined the advance course at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles, California. His designing skills won him several prestigious awards and scholarships resulting in a invitation by the Beverly Hills store ‘Georgio’ to design a collection for them. He was the first Indian designer to show in Universal Studio, Hollywood. Shantanu identified the lacuna in the fashion world in India and the duo jointly launched their namesake label in 1999 with a men’s wear line that was high on sophistication and elegance. The women’s wear line followed in 2001 with a signature collection. Moving from strength to strength, in 2003 they created a classy prêt line in western wear. Their contemporary and silhouette centric designs have a global demand.
‘Hard edges cutting into soft shapes, shadows fuzzing and fading. Lights blurring, folds creased, billowed or crumpled’.
Shantanu/Nikhil presented Perfume, a western bridal wear collection of costumes soaked in vintage languor of 'Elizabethan era'.
Luxuriously draped in delicate textures, the gowns bustiers and dresses were voluminous. Interplay of complex detailing like asymmetric cuts, puffs, pleats peplums and cowls underscored the allure of period costumes for bridal wear. At some point gowns and lehngas become in-distinguishable, seamlessly moving from one culture to another. Bustier replace blouse and vice a versa to contemporize the look.
Soft hues of serene whites, baby pink, salmon, aqua blues & dusty orange washed over the collection.
Delicate lace appliqués, borders and tonal thread embroideries embellished the surfaces.
Overall, a pretty collection brimming with romance and nostalgia for the modern bride.
Manish Malhotra is a designer whose meteoric rise in the Indian as well as global fashion circles has been noteworthy. He is the winner of the Indira Priyadarshni memorial award and sundry Filmfare and Cine awards. The designer started out as a model while still an undergrad at Elphinstone college in Mumbai. He launched his first couture store, ‘Reverie-Manish Malhotra’, in 1998 in association with Yash and Avanti Birla. In 2004, he launched his label ‘MANISH MALHOTRA', which is the country’s first dedicated diffusion label. The secret to his success lies in his ability to balance filmy styles with haute couture.
So far Royalty inspired Bridal wear has been the hallmark of the 2011 couture week. So overwhelming is the influence of the grandeur and luxury of vintage costumes that the designers are unable to break away from its spell to offer equally strong alternatives.
Moving onto the last show of the penultimate day Manish Malhotra better known for his association with Bollywood flew down to Delhi to showcase his
menswear and womenswear collection.
Traditional Indian wear was the popular theme for men and ‘traditional bridal wear’ for women.
Long and voluminous angarkhas and peshwas, flowing in multiple layers of gossamer materials sashayed down the ramp to the tune of profound classical music. The look was inspired by the opulence of Royalty in India during the 1920s to 1940s.
Broad decorative borders and metallic tapes accentuating, blending and jumping, served as the key decorative feature in his collection.
The color story for women stayed warm and strong with cherry reds and burgundy’s contrasted with tones of mint green, aqua, and off whites.
For men, bundgalas, churidars and trousers were clean cut and the colours were dark and deep like black, burgundy, royal blue, beige and gold.
Peppy music and festive mood set the bridal collection on beaten track.
Gaurav Gupta graduated from Central Saint Martins (London) in 2003, where his graduate collection was awarded ‘The Future of Couture’ trophy at AltaRoma AltaModa, Rome Couture Fashion Week and with ‘The Roots of Creativity’ title at the MittelModa Fashion Awards (Italy). Two years later, Gaurav returned to MittelModa as their youngest jury member. His earlier work, while studying at NIFT (Delhi) in 2000 had been awarded at the Makuhari Grandprix in Japan and at the Admiralty Needle in Russia. He has worked with designers like Hussein Chalayan, Tristan Webber and Stella McCartney. Gaurav, subsequently, took up the post of Art Director at the Turkish prêt brand LTB. He debuted his eponymous label at India Fashion Week in 2006. Besides designing women’s prêt and occasion wear, the Gaurav Gupta brand has recently ventured into couture and bridal ensembles, launched its menswear and kidswear lines, opened a flagship store, collaborated with Swarovski Elements for accessories and designed its first collection of couture footwear.
A beautiful fantasy world awaited the guests as they entered the show area. Fuzzy , smoky atmosphere evoked a sense of mystique and expectation. The sole prop, a giant mushroom sprung to life when it turned into a digital screen followed by larger than life projections of lovely graphics.
As our expectations soared high, familiar shapes and styles started rolling out. Amidst familiarity one was looking for surprises. The master of drapes and organic shapes showcased his usual repertoire of stitched saris, sari and gown combos, shirts, dresses, bustiers and draped jumpsuits.
While some minor details were introduced here and there, it wasn’t significant enough from a talented designer, that he is.
The colour palette ranged from powdery and pearly pastels to vibrant reds, followed by nude, gold, putre, ivory and canary yellow.
Soft and fluid fabrics like charmeuse satin, French lace, crepe and net were used for draping cowls, folds and pleats for organic cuts, fishtail hems, trumpet shapes and feminine curves.
Footwear and accessories were designed by Gaurav.
Rohit Bal
Rohit Bal is a designer by instinct and seeks his inspiration from everything around him. Graduating from Delhi's St. Stephen's College with a first class (Hons.) degree in History, Rohit Bal worked for a few years with his brother's export company. In 1990, he created his first designer wear for men. His high profile clientele speaks for his skills. His creations inspire new trends and showcase his workmanship and excellent choice of material. The range of his collections includes men’s wear, women’s wear, couture, prêt-a-porter and ready to wear. He frequently participates in global fashion weeks in Paris, New York, Singapore. Constantly under media glare, he is the brand ambassador for Omega, has modeled for Linen, runs a restaurant and seeks to find newer avenues to showcase his creativity. Intensely concerned with designs as an art form, he draws upon history, fantasy and folklore to create his masterpieces and is know as 'India's Master of fabric and fantasy'.
When profound spirituality stimulates creativity one should expect nothing less than the best. In pursuit of ‘shaanti’ eternal peace and ecstasy, Rohit Bal reaches out to deliver better than his best that I have seen so far.
Each ensemble in itself was a paradigm of Exquisite workmanship and style.
The collection captured folkloric aesthetics beyond the confines of India. Rohit drew upon visual aesthetics and craft techniques from Russian to eastern European folk, their colours and forms to recreate his own narrative, a visual treat for the connoisseur of couture and items of consumption for the discerning.
Contemporary look, refreshing colour palette and clean cut jackets, bustier and Peshwas coordinated with skirts and gowns left most of us wanting to own a piece for ourselves.
Fully hand embroidered patches were pieced together seamlessly into form fitting shapes and generous flares. Flora and fauna motifs arranged in arabesque style were embroidered with fine silk cotton threads.
