A new fangled India International Fashion Week in Gurgaon
Event organizers love a fashion week, as also do sundry brands that flock to sponsor one. Reasons are easy to guess, besides a fun weekend watching glamorous models or the aftermath parties; they also provide easy sponserships and extensive footage in local media. Here is one more going to be held in Gurgaon’s Crowne Plaza hotel from 3 to 5 December, which will have designers from 11 countries participating in it. As per reports, the only Indian designer participant is Mona Pali from Kolkota, the favorite of Sanjay Kaur, MD, Riya Communications Inc, and the organizer of the event. The names of the participating nations are Australia, USA, Peru, Israel, Norway, Tanzania, Dubai, Pakistan and China among others. The designer’s names revealed so far are Dorian Ho from China, Chen Cohen of Israel, and Nedret Taciroglu from Turkey. Sanjay Kapur, who has associated with the couture week in New York and been an advisor to the North Virginia Fashion Week, explained that, “The purpose of hosting an international fashion week in India is business-oriented, and intended to give a fillip to Indian exporters. The cost goes down automatically if international designers get their garments stitched in India. So, even without affecting their profit margins, Indian exporters stand to gain tremendously.”
Salvatore Ferragamo and Swarovski Elements’ new line for cancer
CRYSTALLIZED™ - Swarovski Elements, along with Italian shoe brand Salvatore Ferragamo together unveiled their ‘Pink collection’ of bags, shoes, sunglasses, T-shirts and accessories that reflect both the brands heritage, on the 18th November at the Emporio Mall, Vasant Kunj in Delhi. They together are also in support of breast cancer awareness. Also available as a limited edition item is the iconic bird cage heel covered with CRYSTALLIZED™ - Swarovski Elements. The beneficiaries of the show were the Ogaan Cancer Foundation. The event requested all invited guests to show up in pink and Grey Goose, the Vodka brand from France took this opportunity to give the visitors an exclusive tasting of its ‘Incanto Rosa’.
Sabyasachi at Carma and some more
Carma has just opened up in Mehrauli but this time it is all about designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee and is appropriately called ‘Sabyasachi at Carma.’ The designer has kept the new store understated, yet infused it with his trade mark look. Besides women’s wear, the store also houses a new line in men’s wear and for kids as well. Another addition is a line for plus size women. Besides, the store also showcases his new indulgence in furniture, jewelry and handmade shoes made of ostrich leather. His woven sarees range will start at Rs800. As reported in the Indian Express he said, “I come from a middle-class family where both my parents were professors, so I don’t look at fashion as only high end garments. I think I have an understanding of the middle class’s aspirations and I strongly believe that is the segment which will control the future of fashion.” He shuns international fashion weeks and is not too keen on the local ones either since he is content with his existing client base. He has been designing extensively for Bollywood films like Paa, Ravan and also Guzarish, but as of now, he is seeking a break from Bollywood to concentrate on the villas that he is currently designing. The versatile designer has also written a script that might be turned into a movie.
Finally it’s here – the deep discount designer store
It’s called the Design Vault, this dream store by Tarun and Tina Tahiliani set up at the Ambavatta complex where such designer labels as a Rohit Gandhi, Jean Paul Gaultier, Tarun Tahiliani etc will be up for sale at nearly 90% discount. However this has raised the doubt about the quality of the apparel that will be sold here. Reportedly Tina defended this accusation by saying, "Some times designers over produce, or the export order gets rejected and after one season you can't really rack them in your stores, so it's better to sell it them at a good discount then see them turn yellow and grey in your ware house. The garments are absolutely high quality and they are part of the same lot, it's just that some of them are a couple of seasons old." Other labels to look out for will be Payal Jain, Varun Bahl, The Ensemble Design Studio, Anna Singh, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Moschino, Jean Paul Gaultier and Lanvin.
Coming up next-Chennai Fashion Week from 14th-20th December
It was waiting to happen, The Chennai International Fashion Week (CIFW), due to be launched next month from 14th to 20th December at the Hotel Le Royal Meridian, brought to you by Stormy Fashion Company. As per reports there will be 30 shows. Sixty fashion models of all nationalities have been selected to do the needful. Some of the names of the designers revealed so far are Vikram Phadnis, Neeta Lulla, Sidney Sladen, Pria Kataria Puri, Aslam Khan, Rahul and Gunjan, Jason and Anshu and a promise of some newbie. Also expect an almost fashion week staple of celebrities on the ramp. The aim of the fashion week, as per Gaurav Sharma, CEO Stormy Fashion Company is to establish Indian designers in the international market. What season will the CIFW designers show is yet not revealed.
Sanjana Jon lining up celebrities for CIFW
With the announcement of the new Chennai International Fashion Week, Sanjana Jon has already started to prepare for her show. Yes, she has started rounding up celebrities and thinking up causes to support. At the WIFW S/S 2010 show at Delhi last month, she had siblings and girl child and some more, along with all kinds of celebrities walking the ramp in badly finished black ‘chogas’, with Salman Khan and bro as the prize. Sure she did present some garments too but than everyone knows about her designing background so it was no surprise. For the CIFW she has already roped in Mani Ratnam and his wife. Old friend Salman and Sushmita might oblige too and there is yet another month to go and time enough to collect some more celebrities. It should be a good collection. We will report it too.
Manish Arora for Good Earth
Manish Arora is on a roll. The man has a creative streak and he creates and designs sans borders. After having given his designer take on such diverse subjects as accessories, makeup, watches, cars, auto rickshaw, bike, restaurants, barbershop, alcohol bottle etc, it is now time for him to put his signature on dinner plates. In collaboration with Good Earth, he gets to create a new line of bone china crockery. His recent show at the Paris Fashion Week charmed everyone with his quirky designs and elicited comparisons with John Galliano, which as per reports, were not well received by the designer. Didier Grumbach, president Federation Francaise de la couture, du prêt a porter des couturiers et des createurs de mode had this to say about Manish Arora when he spoke to Newsvision at the recent WIFW in Delhi, “Manish Arora must use his Indian identity positively, if he wants to make a name for himself worldwide.”
Little French woman takes on Chanel over design copy
Carmen Colle, the founder of ethical clothing company, World Tricot, has sued the fashion giant Chanel for €2.5 million ($4 million) in damages for counterfeit and breach of contract, over a crochet pattern claimed to have been created by her tailor that was copied by Chanel. The pattern in question was seen on a cardigan in a Tokyo boutique by Colle and the case was filed in 2004 over the claim that the pattern was copied without Chanel giving her firm the manufacturing order. World Tricot is a supplier of handmade haute couture to such brands as Christian Dior, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Givenchy. The court case has come up for hearing after four years and is being keenly watched by the industry as the result could have far reaching effects. Often, design inputs by tailors and seamstresses or fabricators are not accorded any recognition but instead are given big orders. In the mean time Carmen Colle struggles to survive as her company has been ostracized.
Another Jewelry heist in Paris at Chaumet
The jewelry stores in Paris, it would seem are the favorite haunts for masked raiders. This time it is the two hundred year old Chaumet store on glamorous Place Vendome that was subject to looting by a well informed gang on the 13th November. The modus operandi involved first flicking an employee’s handbag to get the security card to access a service door. Next, it was only a question of cleaning out the place at gun point. Strangely the thieves were well informed about the store’s layout and key locations. Chaumet were reportedly the jewelers of Napolean and Queen Victoria and have top European royal houses and designers for clients.
Not so long ago, it was Chopard that was attacked by armed robbers and jewelry worth €15 million was stolen. The valuation of the loss at Chaumet is still going on.
Did you know that YSL is the highest grosser even after death?
Despite being dead for a while now, French designer Yves Saint Laurant has made it into the ninth annual list designed by forbes.com. Herein, he has been acclaimed as the finest designer in the 20th Century and has already made $350 million through sale of his estate. Singer Michael Jackson, who even posthumously rakes in million from copyright sales etc is behind YSL.
Fashion Model Daul Kim of S Korea dead
Daul Kim, a well recognized fashion model who was a regular at the fashion weeks in New York, Paris, Milan, has reportedly committed suicide at her Paris flat where she was found hanging. Only 20 years old, she was at the pinnacle of her career but was yet said to have been suffering from bouts of depression. Daul Kim grew up in Seoul and Singapore and started out as a model, working with such brands as Chanel, Dries van Noten and Maison Martin Margiela. The world of fashion, glamorous on the outside, reveals a very dangerously hollow and ugly inside, which even such young, beautiful and successful ones find hard to cope with.
Luxury on the web – Kenzo launched e-boutique
The French luxury house Kenzo has launched it new flagship e-boutique to make it easier for its esteemed clients to be able to shop from the privacy of their homes across Europe. Besides the already available selection of women's ready-to-wear, men's wear and kids' wear, home textiles and accessories, Kenzo will now make available its limited edition products. The web site promises delivery within 24-28 hours. The operations will become accessible to buyers in the US in 2011 and in Asia in 2012. We will wait.
Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie design Asprey’s new jewelry line
With the snake as their inspiration, Hollywood couple Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie has designed a new high-end limited edition collection for Asprey, in gold and silver. The jewelry will go on sale at Asprey stores in London, New York, Beverly Hills, Tokyo and Dubai in late November. The proceeds from the sale on the net will go towards a charity cofounded by Jolie in 2006, Education Partnership for Children of Conflict. The collection features silver baby gifts such as the spoon, an eggcup, tooth box and picture frame. For older children and adults, there are pendants and rings made from gold and micropavé diamonds, all featuring curving snakes. The prices start at $525.
Interview - Didier Grumbach at WLIFW S/S 2010 in New Delhi
Didier Grumbach, president Federation Francaise de la couture, du prêt a porter des couturiers et des createurs de mode was the Chief Guest at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week spring- summer 2010 season and took a keen interest in the shows at Pragati Maidan. Meher Castelino, on behalf of Newsvision asked his some candid questions on his views on fashion and where it is going in the world and India; to which he gave clear and equally candid answers.
When was the first time that you became aware of Indian designers’ works and came to India to see it?
The first time I came was in 2006 when Rajesh Pratap Singh, Anamika Khanna and Manish Arora were selected by Maria Louisa to be retailed in Paris. Since then the fashion in India is changing from ethnic but parts of the collections are still very Indian which may not be good for export to the West.
Japanese designers have made an impact on global fashion with their Zen like style. Do you think Indian designers can do the same internationally?
No doubt Japanese designers have made an impact on world fashion but although Japanese fashion changed the image of the country and gave it an haute couture image with names like Issey Miyake, Hana Mori, Yohji Yamamoto that does not mean that Japanese fashion exists internationally. Similarly Indian fashion will be known in the world but it will not exist internationally as a style or concept which women will follow forever? Manish Arora has a sense of humour and may not be successful commercially if he continues like this and Rajesh Pratap is occidental and his work is aimed at couture rather than prêt.
Are there any designers this time at the fashion week in Delhi that you liked?
Some lines like the one from Rahul Mishra who is like Sonia Rykiel was good but he must decide whether he wants to express himself or make money. With a little development his clothes can be sold in the west. Other designers like Sonam Dubal and Anshu Jason had an individual direction which was good. Rajesh Pratap Singh has a European way of presenting and his quality of finish and detailing is amazing. I feel some Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week designers should be in the couture show and not here.
Does participating in fashion weeks help designers?
Some lines are for the salon and if they are okay on the hangers then there is no need for a show but at times controversy helps sell garments when they are seen on the ramp. The best sellers were hated when they first came like the pant suit; but it is great fashion now and an accepted form of dressing. A collecton also depends on marketing. When we look at the world markets for fashion then they are divided. Paris is for innovation, while New York is for the masses and London we need, but the English never made it in Paris. For us Kenzo and Lagerfeld in Paris are considered French since their distribution is international and so their country is forgotten. Manish Arora must use his Indian identity positively, if he wants to make a name for himself worldwide.
Japanese designers succeeded in making an international impact can Indian designers do it?
Japan is very serious and conceptualizes fashion. Indian designers are enthusiastic in an optimistic manner but on the other hand China has no brand while India has hundreds of creators but no sizing, delivery is erratic, and the designers pursue the craft and contrary to China are not organized nor have new technology which is needed to improve the quality of the garments and the collections. So, Indian designers have a long way to go, before they can call themselves internationally well known.
How important is media and publicity according to you?
We need classic press but the media in India is a hindrance and not balanced but governed by advertising. The designer is an artist and the manager is a megalomaniac who is very important, so designers must choose the correct press for their clients. If the designer is haute couture then he must be featured in Vogue, Elle, etc and not in daily newspapers. On the other hand if he is prêt then the creations should be featured in newspapers. When a designer shows his work to everyone then the result will be nothing. Fashion needs managers who are as important as designers to market the styles. When buyers talk to designers’ labels in the west we check who the manager and the staff are, since they are the ones who will take the business forward. The designer only creates in the studio and has no idea of marketing and distribution. French fashion may be created in France, but USA magazines have power over French fashion to spread the word worldwide.
In the 21st century the system is changing because of modernization and internet. The journalist is not free because of advertising pressures to project a particular designer because of the advertisements obtained and the need for new brands and designers is growing because customers are changing.
Do you think the fashion week system is important for designers and that they should display on the ramp every season?
The fashion week system is different. It is in a crisis yet it is the only industry that gives innovation to the planet for nothing. The internet is now a part of fashion and plays a big role in communication as well as marketing and selling and at times the minute a show is over and the styles go on line then ready-to-wear brands copy them and put them on the racks even before the designer can produce them. So the whole fashion business has changed and has become faster and more competitive.
Would you agree with the point of view that Indian designers need to stay in the west to be able to design?
Contact between European designers and the Indian industry will help. In the fashion business the winners are those who create fashion which sells not only in Asia but USA which means that the product is a worldwide need.
Carla Fernandez, a Mexican born fashion designer is the founder of the label Taller Flora. Her belief in ethical fashion has led her to launch a unique concept of a mobile fashion lab that sets up workshops in indigenous communities that handcraft textiles. Thus she is able to address environmental issues that educate and also help the people involved in the manufacturing process.
Archives
The eco Visionary of the Month
November 09
: Anne Salvatore Epstein
September 09
: Maroussia Rebecq
August 09
: Chris Ambraisse
July 09
: Stacy Longo
June 09
: Bahar Shahpar
June 09
: Karen Ter Morshuizen
May 09
: Prof. Doug Miller
April 09
: Samant Chauhan
March 09
: Joe Ikareth
February 09
: Lakshmi Menon Bhatia
January 09
: Dilys Williams
December 08
: Dorothy Maxwell
November 08
: Saeed Awan
October 08
: Kusuma Rajaiah
September 08
: Karen Cole
August 08
: Katharina Hamnett
July 08
: Linda Loudermilk
Eco Alphabet
A for Artificial Food Coloring
A for Ailin - Brand
A for Amazon Life - Brand
A for Alpaca - Metrial
A for Agenda 21 - Document
A for Animal Free - Definition
B for Bamboo fiber - Material
B for Beyond Skin - Brand
B for Bad - Cotton
F for Fair Trade Certified - Certification
G for Green Cotton - Criteria
H for Hemo - Criteria
I for Ingeo - Fabric
L for Lenpur
O for Oeko - Tex
S for Swapping - Concept
Save Water – do not wash your car
That hardly sounds like a solution but in face of depleting water supply and car wash bans imposed by local municipalities; the answer could well be available in a product introduced by Eco Touch. The company has introduced a very innovative portable waterless car wash system that eliminates the use of gallons of water. Their portable sprayer uses a mere 6-10 oz of the formula per vehicle, which is non-toxic, phosphate free and biodegradable. The consumer can check out the data on the packaging about the claims of functional and scientific ingredients.
Earth Presents – eco friendly wrapping paper
Nothing beats receiving a beautifully packed gift but that does not have to be at the cost of the environment. Earth Presents is all about wrapping material that not only is about 100% recycled content but also made of processed chlorine free materials with vegetable-based inks that can be safely discarded. Ditto with the tags – fully recycled, totally recyclable, printed on green raw material made in a green powered factory. Talk about recycled water bottles, biodegradable plastics, corrugated and mailing labels and recyclable adhesive too. That is not all. The company also helps the artwork students of WVSA Arts Connection, a NGO in the Washington DC area by featuring the art of these children with special needs. They donate the paper to the school and allow them to keep all the profits and 5% of the sale as well.
Eco Alphabet
The names of designers, Fabric, Certification, documents, materials, brands, definitions and stores in eco fashion have found a spot in our eco alphabet column. We bring for you a new kind of cellulose fiber this month.
Store
D for Dynamic Earth
Dynamic Earth is a store in Springfield, USA, which is all about encouraging sustainability and has now garments from such eco friendly labels as Nau, Lululemon, Lole and Icebreaker. The label Nau not only has 75-100% recycled content but has started a new feature of ‘upcycling’ an old worn out garment that the customer has brought back.
Icebreaker’s USP is garments made from merino wool that comes from New Zealand’s free-range sheep.
Pet grooming goes hysterical
Sandy Paws is the proud pet groomer who runs her Pet Grooming Salon/Shop in Yucca Valley, California and is gaining popularity for her ability to completely camouflage your dog to look like a bird, chicken, subway sandwich, snail or whatever else that can shock and awe the neighbors. Hard to believe that any owner will subject his/her beloved dog to this drastic transfiguration. It might also invoke the wrath of the local SPCA.
Do not unzip this
Architectural inspiration from an apparel essential has resulted in constructing a giant zipper along the side wall. This is a rather ordinary looking building in Uruguay, which seems badly in need of a paint job and repairs from the look of it. The only redeeming feature is the zipper that seems to be holding the structure together. Or is this the result prank of some clever morphing.
The traditional and elegant Indian Sari has not metamorphosed in nearly a century if not more; not including the blouse or choli. Perhaps it could be because how many ways are there after all, to drape a large swathe of fabric such as not already being done in some region or other of India. Nevertheless, some designers have made an attempt to fuse contemporary elements into the already beautiful attire, which has invoked a mixed response of gasps of appreciation and horror in equal measure. Here are some new looks spotted at recent fashion dos.
Rakesh Agrawal has tried to make the look lighter by replacing the underskirt with sheer tights with a half sari. While this does give easier mobility to the wearer, it is doubtful that it will turn into a rage.
Nida Mahmood’s biker chic is a different take on the same theme, helmet and all. The question to ask is, why bother at all, just use the Tee and leave the Sari whole for some others with more grace.
Here Nida tries out another technique on draping a sari over jeans. Its an idea but it does little to promote the sari and loses out on the legance as well.
Meera Muzaffar Ali does not stray far from the straight and narrow and yet manages an elegant twist. The silver bikini top under the chiffon kurti is not so innovative but going to get popular.
Tarun Tahiliani uses a leather belt, a neat alternative to the ornamental waist bands used in the past. While it may not be a very original idea, it does give a better grip to the sari without mutilating it and just could catch on.
Sumeet Verma’s genius is evident in the way he has draped the fabric of the traditional sari, creating a haute couture look with elements of the orient and the elegance of Pygmalion’s heroine. Very sexy.
The fashion kingdom is gone global and the sundry Italian, French, Japanese, Chinese etc fashion brands and names of different origins are foxing us as to how to pronounce them correctly. Newsvision has it all simplified for you.
The high-end women’s wear label, Proenza Schouler was founded in 2002 by Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, both alumnus of Parsons School of Design. The name of the label comes from their mothers’ maiden names. The designs created under this label are sporty and youthful and hip. The silhouettes remain minimal and sleek and the colour pallet rarely veers from the prefered dark neutral colours. The designers won the CFDA’s Perry Ellis Award for new talent in 2003. Their apparel is available at Barneys New York, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and has just launched a line of shoes in collaboration with Giuseppi Zanotti.
Sonia Rykiel (son-ya rick-eel)
Sonia Rykiel is a French designer who did not receive any formal training. She started out with designing tiny sweaters and maternity dresses. Knits became her mainstay and the Americans recognized her as the ‘Queen of Knits’ as far back as 1967. She was the first designer to put the seams on the outside of an apparel and print words on her sweater. She showed her line at Paris Fashion Week and in 2003 opened a store in New York, along with Boston and Guam.
In the age of rapid mechanization and high tech advancements it is the artisan who holds the thread of a tradition of ancient skills. Cut away from the mainstream these artisan groups struggle to hold on to what they have inherited and many social groups have come forward to support them. Newsvision introduces its readers to various artisan groups and their crafts in this column.
Uttarakhand’s handicraft artisans wither under neglect
In the absence of government support, the artisans from the handloom and handicraft sector of Uttarakhand are struggling to survive. The villages such as Mana in Chamboli district, the scheduled tribes like the Bhotia tribe etc are known for their beautiful carpets, woollen pullovers, hand-driven fans, Asan (small mat), Dan (carpet), ‘Chutka' (a type of woollen blanket or quilt), but the artisans do not get their due in terms of better marketing or aid from the government to enhance their production capability vis a vis better machines and more wool. The lack of modern tools results in poor finish of the product, which than translated in inadequate sale prices. However, as per reports, Uttarakhand Chief Minister Ramesh Pokhariyal Nishank has assured these artisans and said, "The State Government, in collaboration with the handloom and handicraft industry are planning to make a separate scheme for that so that not only the tradition live but people associated with this art also become more efficient and we can popularise their work across the world.”
Algeria’s new strategy about boosting its handicraft sector
Algeria has discovered the power of the artisan and has put in place a new strategy to translate this into a profitable venture. As reported in Echorouk, the Algerian daily newspaper, as of 21st November, 2009, the Algerian government has started implementing funding solutions for craftsmen, which include loans. The Algerian minister for small and mid size enterprises, Mustapha Ben Bada said that this will double the sector’s profit by 2010, and so will the number of craftsmen go up from the current 363,000 to one million.
The recent swarm of Bollywood celebrities on Indian ramps begs the question, when is it enough? Fashion shows can be of two types – corporate/brand promotion or a serious show casing of a designer’s collection to set trends and garner business for the label. The first is a purely marketing exercise where the more the eyeballs, the better. Here, if one is especially rich, Bollywood certainly turns head, makes it media worthy and sometimes helps in making the show and brand memorable. However, the dynamics for a serious show is different. The main focus has to be on the collection and the designer. Front row celebrities or those walking on the ramp must be intelligently chosen so that they don’t over-awe the presentation but ‘garnish’ it to add marketing and media value. Further, the celebrities must truly reflect the virtues of the label.
In this context, the HDIL Couture Week was a disaster and could rightly be called a Bollywood Fashion Week. Lakme Fashion Week is not too far behind with the ‘business of fashion’ having gone of its radar. The Van Heusen India Mens Week and the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (barring the Grand Finale in the former and Sanjana Jon’s show in the latter) were more balanced. However, behind the scenes, there was an unsavoury effort to out do each other in celebrity quotient.
Hopefully, sanity will prevail otherwise Indian ramps will soon be taken over completely by Bollywood.
Interview - Didier Grumbach at WLIFW S/S 2010 in New Delhi
That hardly sounds like a solution but in face of depleting water supply and car wash bans imposed by local municipalities; the answer could well be available in a product introduced by Eco Touch. The company has introduced a very innovative portable waterless car wash system that eliminates the use of gallons of water. Their portable sprayer uses a mere 6-10 oz of the formula per vehicle, which is non-toxic, phosphate free and biodegradable. The consumer can check out the data on the packaging about the claims of functional and scientific ingredients. 
Nothing beats receiving a beautifully packed gift but that does not have to be at the cost of the environment. Earth Presents is all about wrapping material that not only is about 100% recycled content but also made of processed chlorine free materials with vegetable-based inks that can be safely discarded. Ditto with the tags – fully recycled, totally recyclable, printed on green raw material made in a green powered factory. Talk about recycled water bottles, biodegradable plastics, corrugated and mailing labels and recyclable adhesive too. That is not all. The company also helps the artwork students of WVSA Arts Connection, a NGO in the Washington DC area by featuring the art of these children with special needs. They donate the paper to the school and allow them to keep all the profits and 5% of the sale as well.
Dynamic Earth is a store in Springfield, USA, which is all about encouraging sustainability and has now garments from such eco friendly labels as Nau, Lululemon, Lole and Icebreaker. The label Nau not only has 75-100% recycled content but has started a new feature of ‘upcycling’ an old worn out garment that the customer has brought back.
