Lakmé Fashion Week has poor buyer turn out  
 

"Men are no longer satisfied with three trousers and six shirts. They want a complete wardrobe with separate clothes for work and parties. They want several pairs of sunglasses, shoes and watches."

 
– Ravi Bajaj, Men’s wear designer, as reported in Mint, September 5, 2009.
 
The high profile and aloof from all controversies of the kind raging in Delhi, the Lakmé Fashion Week that happened in Mumbai last month could not attract enough buyers for its shows. As per reports carried in HT, designers did not seem too happy with the mismatch in the list of buyers provided and the final turn out. Voicing the same concerns as designer Vivek Karunakaran, Imcha Imchen said, "There are no queries from international buyers. Not many domestic buyers have placed orders either." Some buyers from Harvey Nichols and Canada did show up for Rahul Mishra’s collection, the absence of buyers from the middle east as well as US and Europe was being rued. Designer Anuj Sharms had his eyes peeled for buyers from atleast Delhi to have taken some interest, which they did not oblige.
 
 
  LFW’s first Summer/Prêt 2010 season from 5-9 March 2010
 

The Lakmé Fashion Week (LFW) is heralding its first time ever ode to the Indian Summer by announcing the dates of the dates of the Summer/Prêt 2010 season from 5th to 9th March, 2010, to be held at Grand Hyatt Hotel, Mumbai. The ten-year old LFW is setting a new pace for the growing fashion industry in India, with the new fashion week focused more on the current/upcoming season rather than projecting the next season.
Anil Chopra, Advisor, Lakmé said, “Lakmé Fashion Week offers a seamless display of a fashion culture that knows no borders to the ever increasing stakeholders of designers, buyers, sponsors and fashionistas. Always a step ahead in innovation, we believe the business of fashion time cycle in India is going through a dynamic change. The buyers are placing orders for deliveries within 30 - 40 days and not after a stretch of six months.
Our seasons are different from West, hence keeping in mind the various needs of the Indian fashion industry we have designed the Summer/Prêt 2010 this season. With the upcoming season in March, LFW will continue to promote excellence in quality, encourage the best talent to showcase and further help spread business of fashion in India.
 
Whither FDPC?    

The Fashion Design Promotion Council (FDPC), an initiative of the Textile ministry, arrived with a bang and set the proverbial cat amongst the pigeons with Vijay Singh as their high profile, ever-in-the-news CEO. Leading upto, daily reportage of the ensuing high drama and adrenaline pumping updates on merger of the dying Delhi Fashion Week, intentions of merging FDCI, plans of holding single fashion week, replacing Wills from the Wills Fashion Week to Sahara, overlapping dates and more. All this culminated in as intense a climax with the arrest of Vijay Singh on charges of embezzlement and fraud. As a result the FDCI regained its footing and the right to hold a single fashion week, Raghavendra Rathore resigned as the vice president of FDPC, all the government nominees on the FDPC’s Governing Council stepped down and the Textile ministry issued a disclaimer. Last heard, Vijay Singh claimed that he would be back with a fashion week next season and would continue in the fashion business. All this within a year of its conception in September of 2008.

 
  Karan Johar – from films to fashion
The new men’s wear designer on the block is Karan Johar, the multifaceted and very talented director of Hindi movies, who participated in the HDIL India Couture Week 09. Teaming up with the well established women’s wear designer, Varun Behl, he launched a jazzy men’s wear collection. Goes without saying that the show was high on silver screen glamour and all his buddies, which include King Shah Rukh Khan and wife Gauri, Dino Morea, Ranbir Kapoor and Imran Khan, walked the ramp in his attire. The rest of the film industry was visible in the front row. The music and the setting of the stylish stage and ramp was top notch, as would be expected coming from the maker of such glamorous movies as Kabhi Khushi Kabhi Gum etc. The line comprised three piece suits, long and short jackets, Bermudas, flat front skinny trousers, shorts, blousons, shirts, with built in waistcoats, long coats with mandarin collars, revised form of sherwanis with lapels, double-breasted quilted leather coats and military jackets, tab closures for plackets, looped front Jodhpuri jackets and a discreetly shimmering sherwani.
 
HDIL India Couture Week high on CRYSTALLIZED™– Swarovski Elements  

The HDIL India Couture Week is unfolding at the Grand Hyatt in Mumbai. Indian couture is synonymous with wedding wear and adding a neat quotient of the desired sparkle and glitter was the huge presence of RYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements not only on the ramp but across the entire venue. Adorning the venue was a huge fiber glass installation of a nose, lips and ears by artist Sumanth Jaikishan, that were highlighted with CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements, as also was the interior of the Kingfisher bar which gleamed with the newly launched Asymmetrical and Chessboard cut CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements now available in a range of colours as both a Flat Back Hotfix and a Sew-on Stone, opening multiple possibilities for creative applications. The chandeliers from Shimera Lighting in Mumbai and the snaking wine were all made of brilliant CRYSTALLIZED™ strings hung over the bar with sporadic lotus flowers as a centerpiece above the bar. Beautiful and sparkling chandeliers adorning the venue were made with STRASS Swarovski Crystal. Couturiers like Manav Gangwani, Suneet Varma, Aki Narula and Varun Bahl added the bling element to the apparel by borrowing on the glitter of CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements.
 
 
  Unfolding a star studded HDIL India Couture Week
 

The second edition of the HDIL India Couture Week is all set to roll out again from 11th to 16th October, at the Grand Hyatt Mumbai. The high glam event will see the participation of such couturiers as Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla, Manav Gangwani, Manish Malhotra, Monisha Jaising, Pallavi Jaikishan, Suneet Varma and Varun Bahl. Bollywod director Karan Johar is also going to showcase his first ever couture menswear collection that he has designed along with fashion designer Varun Bahl. The new addition for this Couture Week will be a couture jewellery show by Devaunshi Mehta, Maheep Kapoor, Queenie Dhody and Farah Khan. Mumbai is one of only three cities (apart from New York and Paris) in the world to have a Couture Week on its fashion calendar.
The event will also play host to a star studded show in support of Being Human: the Salman Khan Foundation.
 
Rohit Bal to ring in the Grand Finale at WIFW SS10  

Wills India have named Rohit Bal as the Grand Finale designer for the upcoming Wills India Fashion Week spring/summer 2010. This makes the second time that Bal will bring the curtains down at a WIFW season. His collection for the SS10 is titled ‘Yasas’, which has been inspired by India’s cultural heritage, for which he researched ancient Indian costumes of the Mughal era. Rohit Bal said, “I am drawn towards ancient weaves and the revival of all these dying art forms. This is what Yasas is.” The WIFW SS 2010 is set to take place from 24th -28th October.
 
 
     
   
 
 
 
 
     
Paris Fashion Week and Vogue magazine covers  
The Paris Vogue is celebrating its 90th anniversary in style during the Paris Fashion Week. Nearly 80 of its greatest covers have been displayed alongside the Champs Elysees, next to the Grand Palais. Some of the top photographers like Irving Penn who died recently, and artists’ works have featured on the cover of this famous mag. The magazine has featured such names as Salvadre Dali, Andy Warhol and Bruce Weber etc. This display will be retained until November 1st.
 
 

  New accessory are the Mulberry laptop bags
 

The British luxury brand Mulberry has been asked by Apple to design 9 piece collection of their favorite bags for Apple’s MacBook, MacBook Pro, iPhone, iPod and iPod Nano. Emma Hill, the creative director of Mulberry was delighted with the collaboration since she herself is a computer buff and rued the lack of nicer looking bags to carry her Apple around. These bags, specially designed with padding for the laptop, will retail out of Mulberry stores on November 1st, and on their website, www.Mulberry.com from 1st December.
 
Tom Ford returning to women’s wear    

Tom Ford, the well known American designer responsible for turning around Gucci as its creative director and going on to launch his personal label ‘Tom Ford’, has let known that he will return to creating women’s wear once again, much to the delight of those who love his creations. He was apparently seeking finances to the tune of nearly $ 50mil to fund this project. Industry sources have projected that he might show his collection for A/W 2010 in February 2010. As reported in WWD, Ford spoke about his debut and said, “You know it will take me 18 months when I start, because [I have] to hire the team, find the factories, put everything together and then get the stores ready so there’s a place for these clothes. Financing is extremely expensive right now, so if we find financing in the right situation we’ll be able to start [a women’s collection] soon. If we don’t, we may have to wait a while.”
 
 
  Jimmy Choo for H&M line – coming soon
 

In a first for H&M, it has associated with shoe designer Jilmmy Choo to bring out a new line of apparel and accessories that are high on quality and yet fit within the H&M price line. The new line will be available in all of the 200 H&M stores by mid November. Previously the company has had very successful collaborations with such designers as Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, Viktor & Rolf, Roberto Cavalli. Tamar Mellon, founder and president of Jimmy Choo said that she was inspired by late-Seventies pop icons and hippies in Goa.
 
Louboutin is Barbie’s new godfather    

Barbie’s creator Mattel has entered into a partnership deal with the top show designer Christian Louboutin, wherein he gets be her godfather for a year. Under the new arrangement, Louboutin will rework her fashion wardrobe, physical attributes and art direct her in different lifelike situations, which has translated into a diary with images of Louboutin and Barbie in different settings. Interestingly, a comment by Louboutin on the size of Barbie’s ankle being not thin enough, set off a huge protest on the net. Stephanie Cota, senior vice president of marketing of Barbie brands at Mattel, said, “Barbie has a long history of working with various designers and artists who use Barbie as a muse. It was a natural for Barbie, not only with her fashion heritage, but also because of her passion for shoes. She has a billion shoes and we needed to do something special for her shoe collection.” Louboutin has designed three themes to be launched in December, February and May. The first one is a jewel thief-themed Barbie, next a safari-themed Barbie, and in May will be launched a Barbie that goes to the Cannes Film Festival.
 
     
   
 
 
 
 
Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2010 Trend Overview
By M Mistry
Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2010 season presented an interesting mélange of trends for both Indian and western wear with silhouettes and unconventional constructions making strong fashion statements.
 
 
  Silhouettes

An international flavour emerged for silhouettes as japanese samurai sleeves and origami for skirts and dresses was favoured by many designers. There was also a touch of the zen like look that added a casual chic to the garments. Innovative constructions included the tunic sari, backless sari gowns and abstract inspirations like cubism for sleeves, necklines and side silts. The dhoti gown and draped sari jumpsuits were other experiments that were tried. For some extreme construction the reversible and switch around dresses made great news while inverted shirts for blouses and skirts were unique. The popular tiered skirts and soft sculpted drapes at times rather intricate were beautifully created. Fabrics were manipulated into twists, twirls and curls for cowls while handkerchief hemlines made strong fashion statements for skirts, blouses and dresses. It was the return of the “v” silhouette, contoured and trapeze shapes with volumes while sheer ankle or calf length wide pajamas with long kalidar kurtas were a perfect summer offering. Waistcoats are back and jodhpuri or skinny pants still hang on to the fashion charts. Long sheer or cotton lightly quilted coats worn over saris or dresses are ideal for cool summer evenings.
 


Fabrics And Colours
 
The fabric story revolved around popular summer options like net, chiffon, georgette, linen, mul, voile, cotton, jersey and satin with white being the predominant colour along with pastels to vibrant colours but prints played an important part for summer. Animal prints like zebra, leopard and snake along with colour blocking was favoured by some designers while others went in for digital, stain or block prints of dragon flies, birds, wings, flying forms, macro designs, feathers, twiggy, tulips, chattai mixed with sequins and embroidery. Fabrics were textured to create a pompom, dome, chevron like effect with curls and rolls and layering played an important part in most garments.
 
 

Detailing

CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements were the popular options for embellishments as saris with wide belts clinched the waists and denim got a new look with swarovski glitter. Embroidery also took over the shoulder pads on minis, maxis, midis and blouses while unconventional darts and tucks gave an interesting look to garments. Detailing with knife and sunray pleats and panelling with curves for shoulders, armholes and skirts added volume and extreme drapes and construction with the help of pin tucks, piping, sequins, metal chains and hooks as well as 3d textures, thread embroidery, appliqués, patchwork, bandhani, tie and dye made an interesting mix. Glitter was either dazzling or restrained but was present for most creations.

 
     
 
 
 
 
 
The eco Visionary of the Month
 
     
 
 
 
Anne Salvatore Epstein
 
 

Anne Salvatore Epstein is the founder of the label BEAU SOLEIL, which is focused on sustainability and eco-friendly styles. For her creations she uses fabrics made out of bamboo, vegetable-dyed organic cottons and vintage, tencel, which is made from eucalyptus tress and recycled leather trims. She is a firm believer in fair trade practices.

 
 
Archives
 
The eco Visionary of the Month
 
September 09
: Maroussia Rebecq 
August 09
: Chris Ambraisse
July 09
: Stacy Longo
June 09
: Bahar Shahpar
June 09
: Karen Ter Morshuizen
May 09
: Prof. Doug Miller
April 09
: Samant Chauhan
March 09
: Joe Ikareth
February 09
: Lakshmi Menon   Bhatia
January 09
: Dilys Williams
 
 
Eco Alphabet
 
A for Artificial Food Coloring
 
 
A for Ailin - Brand
 
A for Amazon Life - Brand
 
A for Alpaca - Metrial
 
A for Agenda 21 - Document
 
A for Animal Free - Definition
 
B for Bamboo fiber - Material
 
B for Beyond Skin - Brand
 
B for Bad - Cotton
 
F for Fair Trade Certified - Certification
 
G for Green Cotton - Criteria
 
 
H for Hemo - Criteria
 
 
I for Ingeo - Fabric
 
 
L for Lenpur
 
 
O for Oeko - Tex
 
   
  Columbia drops environmental journalis


Recession took its toll in the corridors of learning and, Columbia University's prestigious journalism school announcement that their 14 year old master program on environmental journalism. that it will be suspending its 14-year-old environmental journalism masters program amidst a media-wide financial crisis. The reason touted was that the course was too expensive and would not probably result in jobs etc.

   
 
Eco Alphabet
 
The names of designers, Fabric, Certification, documents, materials, brands, definitions and stores in eco fashion have found a spot in our eco alphabet column. We bring for you a new kind of cellulose fiber this month.
 
Concept
 
S for Swapping
 
Swishing/Swapping/Shwopping – a concept that is rapidly catching on even in India, as it is in the West. There are people and websites who are offering facilities where designer wear or branded apparel and accessories could be hired or exchanged with clothes they do not wear any more.
 
 
 
 
 
 
     
Bullet resistant jackets give security and are fashionable too    

New technological advances have made it possible to make security apparel like bullet resistant clothing, such that it blends in with regular apparel. Not only are these clothes lighter in weight, they are also fashionable. The technology used here ensures that the energy from the point of impact is radiated away in order to reduce the blow of a bullet, the panels are waterproof to guard against humidity and body heat. Miguel Caballero is a US based manufacturer of this kind of clothing, with his firm based in Colombia. Surprisingly, of the entire $6.4 million worth of bullet-resistant clothing made by Miguel Caballer, nearly 40%were acquired by civilians. The apparel is rather high priced, with an Italian leather jacket costs $5000 and Polo T-shirts start at $4,000. These clothing items are very popular in areas with a high crime rate. These being such countries as India, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Brazil and the rest of Latin America. If in London, one could pick it up from their sales point within Harrods.
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
     
Milan Fashion Week RTW Spring 2010    

Donatella Versace presented a classic Versace line inspired by the 80’s look with fitted miniskirts and mini dresses, only briefly delving into gowns. With ‘Alice in Wonderland’ as the theme, the styles were flamboyant and exotic. The apparel were high on prints and embellishments like Swarovski, leather triangles, silver accents, whipcord detail etc.

 
Karl Lagerfeld worked a very feminine look for Fendi this season. The models strutted on six inch high platform heels to parade billowing, gauzy, skirts, dresses and blouses in chiffons and mousselines. The focus stayed on sheer and a faded pastel palette with apparel like an organza shirt over apple green shorts. The peek-a-boo, semi transparent look was never vulgur. Frayed ends are back.
 
 
Designes Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana created a steamy line projecting a romantic mood for their label Dolce & Gabbana this season. The collection was called ‘Heritage’ and was filled with lace, fringe, corset dresses, jackets, dresses all very feminine.
 
     
   
 
 
 
 
The fashion kingdom is gone global and the sundry Italian, French, Japanese, Chinese etc fashion brands and names of different origins are foxing us as to how to pronounce them correctly. Newsvision has it all simplified for you.
   
   

Ricardo Tisci -
(rick-ar-doe tish-ee)
 

Riccardo Tisci is an Italian fashion designer who graduated from London's Central Saint Martins Academy. He went on to become the creative director of Givenchy in 2005 for their women’s wear and haute couture division and in May 2008 he became the menswear and accessories designer of the Givenchy men's division. His styles are known for their Gothic touches, such as his dark and languid dresses on anorexic models and space age minimalism. He is Madonna’s most favored designer.
 
 
 
Thierry Mugler -
(tea-air-ee moo-glay )
 

Thierry Mugler started out as a ballet dancer but went on to also study design. He shifted to Paris in 1970 and launched his first line Café de Paris in 1973, and founded his own label for women in 1975, to be followed by designs for men in 1978. His creations reflected the times and he was fascinated with glamour of the silver screen as well as the insect kingdom. After his fashion house packed up in 1990, he entered into a partnership with the cosmetic firm Clairns in 1997 and created such perfumes as ‘Angel’. He has since published two books on fashion design and photography.
 
     
   
 
 
 
     
In the age of rapid mechanization and high tech advancements it is the artisan who holds the thread of a tradition of ancient skills. Cut away from the mainstream these artisan groups struggle to hold on to what they have inherited and many social groups have come forward to support them. Newsvision introduces its readers to various artisan groups and their crafts in this column.
 
Tanishq to improve the lot of jewelry artisans  

Tanishq, the jewelry brand from the house of Titan, is working towards improving the working conditions of the artisans in the jewelry trade and has set up eight ‘karigar’ parks in the industrial belt of Hosur in Tamil Nadu. Over 600 artisans from West Bengal, Kochi and Coimbatore are housed here. This endeavor seeks to provide the artisans with well-lit and spacious work spaces, improved work benches, availability of modern tools, upgraded technology and even safety equipment. The artisans also get such benefits as easy loans, finances, medical insurance and free health check ups. Plans are on the anvil to set up such parks in Madhya Pradesh, Gujarat, Rajasthan and Mumbai within the next two years.
 
 
   
 
 
 
     
A new hope for Indian Fashion?    
The curtains have down on the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week with a new hope. In the eleven years of Indian ramp presentations, this must have been amongst the smoothest and positive yet. The WIFW was not a ‘unified’ event in the sense that all factious organisations colluding together, but it was nevertheless an umbrella for all designers – big and small. This in itself is no small feat! The credit of course goes to divine providence for ‘exposing’ other contenders in the nick of time. Another positive feedback from the event was the large presence of buyers both Indian and foreign. Designers have confirmed that they were pleasantly surprised with the large enquiries and the orders that they were able to write from both domestic and international buyers. No doubt, there is a ‘feel-good’ atmosphere from business people and the expectation that the coming season will see an end to recessionary conditions and result in growth. There are rumours that the ‘vanquished’ factions may make a new bid to grab a bite of the growing pie. We hope any new initiatives from whatever sources is positive and is aimed at bringing the still fledging industry up without bringing down what has already been achieved.
 
   
 
 
 
Editor In Chief : Vinod Kaul    -    Editor : Neelima Mishra Agrawal
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